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That's right. Also consider that you're unlikely to have all lights blazing simultaneously. If you were to overload the circuit(s) with too many lights all on at once, the protection device would (should!) trip to protect the cable from melting. Best to stay below 1380W total load per circuit...

According to Building Regs, you can chisel vertically up to 1/3 of the thickness of the wall. Horizontal chases are limited to 1/6th wall thickness.

...and it's all gone strangely quiet.....sshh...d'you think he's gone ahead anyway....these pesky tradesmen, I'll show 'em....

Where I live there is a small downstairs toilet with a fused spur in that position (though not within P-shot). I didn't fit it, but it's for the macerator. I guess you'd know if you had one of those lurking behind your toilet, though. Possibly not the best place for it...

Thanks John D. Will procede as suggested.

OK dokey...figured out what I'm going to do in the bathroom (no jokes, please!). Basically connect everything to everything else (well, not quite). My question is this: if I use, say 4mm² PVC earth cable to connect, what kind of crimp terminals should be used? I already have the 10 & 16mm...

You mean like this? Cheers John D!

Thanks John D. I get the idea, but still have a few niggles... With regard to main bonding, as illustrated in the second of those linked articles, the idea seems to be that if you touched a faulty cooker (exposed conductive part) and, say, a metal tap (extraneous conductive part)...

Well, there hasn't been a post about this thorny subject for a day or two, so here's mine... Having looked at all the relevant guides, I still find the subject confusing. I have fitted an electric shower (with 45A DP isolator & pullcord), new zone 3 ceiling light and SELV fan (transformer and...

Time for my next lesson - how d'ya get those fancy highlighted quote boxes? Must've been off school that day... Thanks for the replies - I didn't realise that the 100A switch wasn't also a breaker! Learn something new every day! So the 60A Type 88 fuse is basically acting as the supplier's...

OK, so what do you do when you have to rewire and update (i.e. new appliances, electric shower) an ex-council tower block flat that's protected elsewhere by a 60A HBC fuse locked in a cupboard? OK, I got the FB key and removed said fuse to allow me to install a new CU, but that CU came, as most...

Thanks guys, that's useful info (about the ² character) and about crimping to pyro cores. I know it's correct practice to put the highest rated MCB nearest to the main switch, but does it really make any difference? I thought it was just anal good practice! By the way, I feel confident...

Thanks Adam. The thing is the pyro comes in at the top and there is only a short distance to the fuses. Most CUs that I've fitted have a greater distance from top to MCBs/neutral/earth bars. You suggest crimping on (presumably) extentions to the wires - is this acceptable practice? When you...

Yes, it does seem from the regs that RCD protection is not required, but it's obviously a good idea. The trouble with MIMS cable installations in the flats I'm working in is that there really is NO slack cable for the purpose of installing a modern CCU. I would have to use some kind of...

Thanks for that, John D. That seems to make sense.

Hi - I am planning to fit an electric shower in a flat. The fuse board is one of the old rewireable types, but can't be easily updated as the flat is wired in pyro (MIMS) cable, so there's absolutely no slack. However, there is an unused way that I can wire into with 10mm2 T&E for the shower...

Gents - I have just fitted a kitchen with metal sink, copper pipes to taps, with copper fittings on pipework (i.e. no plastic). I have run an earth equipotential cable from CU to water main stop-cock, in kitchen cupboard. Do I still need to put additional bonding on pipes below sink?

Now that would've been thoughtful of those Italians....

Well guys, I'd like to have the time to do a proper job, but ultimately it's not my problem. It's regretable that it happened, but I need to get the job finished and move on. My client may not notice it, and anyway, she's renting the place out so the cooker will soon be covered in crud. The rest...

Thanks, guys. Hmmm...difficult one because the part with the scratches is the control panel with lots of knobs. I would really have to remove all the knobs first, but then I could get into a situation where I'm digging myself in deeper and deeper, especially if it doesn't work too well due to my...