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Hi, When testing a TT installation, if Ze is well below 200 ohms and r1 +r2 less than 1ohm for each circuit, is there really any need to measure Zs for each circuit? I can understand the need to measure Zs in a TNCS installation for example because there are tabulated values which it must be...

Thanks for all the replies. I'll let you know the problem (should i find it!)

hello everyone, I've got to go and check out a problem at a recording studio that has a problem with 'buzzing' thru the speakers when the air con is switched on. This problem never occurred before the air con was installed. My first guess is that when it was installed they've layed the power...

All lamps daisy chained with 4-core. Green to green, white to white etc etc and the red and black eventually going back to the supply unit.

Finished installing the £2k's worth of fancy colour-changing LED lights today. They look great. But £2k's worth of great? i'm not so sure. Thanks for the help.

Thanks Breezer. They do look nice dont they? For 20 lights (1 master, 19 slaves), 20 housings, cable, remote control and power supply you dont get much back from 2 grand (inc VAT).

Thanks RF. That was my initial thought but the earth lead within the GL030 metal housing threw me. I guess that must be there in case they're used for other lighting. I guess what i'll do is terminate that earth lead in a block, connect all the greens, whites, reds and blacks and take the red...

thanks for that, I'm not going to a transformer. I am running to a power supply equivalent to the one in the diagram. I've got the red and black going back to the unit as in the diagram but i was unsure as to what to do with the green and white and whether or not the green was an earth.

It's the Collingwood Tristar Master/Slave system fitting into some GL030 housings. I've also got the correct power supply unit (MEAN WELL SD 200)

hello. I'm putting in some collingwood remote controlled tristar colourchange LED lighting in a garden but there's no wiring instructions and this is the first time i've put some of these in. Each Tristar lamp has 4 wires - red, black, green and white. I'm assuming red and black eventually go...

thanks guys. That was the answer i was expecting (but not the one i wanted!). Now for the onorous task of finding a corgi guy who is: a) willing to do such a small job and b) not booked up for the next 12 months...

..and presumably i'm not allowed to do that myself?

I have a customer who wants a gas hob removing and replacing with an electric hob (dont ask). Underneath the worktop below the hob is the gas pipe including an isolating valve. Is it sufficient for me to simply turn of the supply via the valve and cut the pipe and then remove the hob or do i...

thanks for the replies. I'll go for the plasterboard and no-nails. I just thought there might have been a cheap and cheerful ready-made solution but i spose it wont take a great deal of time to knock 'em together.

Hi, I'm about to put 6 or 7 LV downlights in a ceiling. I'm aware that the insulation in the roof space above needs to be kept away from the lights. Does anybody know of any proprietary 'box' type structure that exists that can fit over each of the lights so the insulation can then be placed...

Everything will be sealed. i did poke a small screwdriver through the wall and there didn't seem to be much space between the plaster and brickwork. I think i'd struggle to get a 6mm down there tbh otherwise i agree, that would be the best option.

Thanks for the replies. I think i'll go for the trunking. Aesthetics not a priority in this case.

Hello, The wall in my bathroom is lathe and plaster and as such i'm a little reluctant to chase the cable in the wall in case it disintegrates! Am i allowed to run the cable from the ceiling down to the shower unit inside plastic trunking? I've looked at the regs and I cant spot anything that...