colourchange LED lighting

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hello.
I'm putting in some collingwood remote controlled tristar colourchange LED lighting in a garden but there's no wiring instructions and this is the first time i've put some of these in.
Each Tristar lamp has 4 wires - red, black, green and white. I'm assuming red and black eventually go back to COM and V+ respectively on the power supply. I'm guessing the white is a control wire for the remote signal but is the green wire for earth? There are earth leads within each of the metal housings for the LED's but from the simple diagrams i've seen on the Collingwood site no earth wire goes back to the power supply.
Any help greatly appreciated.
 
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What model are the fittings? Do you have a proper LED transformer? I seem to remember the collingwood gear runs off 5V DC and not 12V AC like a normal downlighter. Do you have a seperate control unit or is it integral to the fitting?
 
It's the Collingwood Tristar Master/Slave system fitting into some GL030 housings. I've also got the correct power supply unit (MEAN WELL SD 200)
 
Right, You cannot run the fittings you have straight off a transformer. They need to be connected to a special collingwood controller and wired like so:
collingwood.gif

I assume the green and the white wire are commoned together and the red and the blak wires go back to the control box.
 
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thanks for that,

I'm not going to a transformer. I am running to a power supply equivalent to the one in the diagram. I've got the red and black going back to the unit as in the diagram but i was unsure as to what to do with the green and white and whether or not the green was an earth.
 
I would think it is unlikely that there will be an earth on a low voltage fitting, and the green and white wires will more likely be for the units to 'talk' to each other.
 
the whole instructions are here

may i say how nice they look, dare i ask how much, only quickly looked at website
 
Thanks RF. That was my initial thought but the earth lead within the GL030 metal housing threw me. I guess that must be there in case they're used for other lighting. I guess what i'll do is terminate that earth lead in a block, connect all the greens, whites, reds and blacks and take the red and black back to the power unit.
Thanks again
 
Thanks Breezer.
They do look nice dont they?
For 20 lights (1 master, 19 slaves), 20 housings, cable, remote control and power supply you dont get much back from 2 grand (inc VAT).
 
We fitted some of the ones that fit into a standard downlighter fitting (they look virtually identical to the ones in question) they were:

Are you sat down?

£55 per lamp plus £50 for the remote control plus £15 for a tranny (one tranny will do for two lamps) oh and the VAT. They look nice but they are b****y expensive
 
Its prices like that that make me want to go and design something myself instead :LOL:

(oh and I'll show you my christmas display in december, hopefully I'll get what I have been wanting to do for a few years, done this year... :) )
 
ah, i have taken a sudden dislike to the colour

i will have to stick to my project then

i am considering using
LAM58RED.JPG

one each of r g & b and running them by dmx (much cheaper, but i am still looking for a fitting for each, they are to go outside

although i have found a smaller lamp in size, 3 should fit in side a very short drain pipe, pipe mounted in soil
 
Now you've mentioned DMX what about one of these (with a bit of waterproofing) It's loads brighter (so you won't need many) I've got a couple and they seem decent tough little bits of kit
SLS10125.gif
 
4 channels? whats the 4th one for? :confused:

And seems a good price for it, tbh,


Reminds me very slightly of the 'rainbow pars' me and some mates rigged up for a drama production at my old sixth form, 300w per colour channel :cool: ... we had some other DMX kit as well + stuff on the dimmers, and combined with a lot of computers and aircon...we popped the service fuse on the undersized supply in the end (and melted it into the service head... DNO guy needed a chisel :LOL: )
 
was that the one where after the service fuse was changed the cutout overheated and they had to rewire from a burried joint outside?
 

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