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There is no regulation that says you cannot clip 1.0mm2 T&E direct to the wall, and not bother with conduit which would look OTT. Why take flex into the light when you can take the T&E straight in. Less connections the better.

Most people fail to replace the back-up battery every 3 years like you should. Also many don't even have a back-up battery, so the SAB Module triggers the external bell whenever the power fails.

The certificate is only for the Fuseboard and not the complete installation. You should have a Periodic Test and Inspection carried out for the complete Electrical Installation, you will then receive a Periodic Test and Inspection Certificate, this will show any defects under observations...

Bit confused here, when you say Zero the leads ??? On most machines you only zero leads for continuity. With a reading of 0.03 Ohms I would say this is TNCS and very near to transformer sub.

True this would be cheaper, but depends on if you want to maintain the fire rating of the cable. Also the conduit box is much wider than the 20mm MI Joiner, worth considering when chopping out the wall.

Let me get this right, are talking about the cabling at the switch or the wall light.

Yes you would want to use two in order to carry out the repair. They are designed for the purpose and you should be able to pick them up from the Electrical Merchants, they may have to order in. They will not be cheap, MI stuff never is.

From what you have said the conduit is your earth, but you check to make sure you continuity. You will have a fly lead earth at your switch and you need a fly lead earth at your light.

Agree with Plugwash. Box and glands IP56, if lid was missing then it looks very clean with no signs of ingress of water.

It's all down to length :D :D :D :D :D :D

You could install a couple of MI In-line Joints, they are not very nice to work with and are like a long brass 20mm Conduit Coupler. I have used them a couple of times and hated them. Due the tools needed it would require an Electrician.

Sounds like someone has put red sleeve over the earth wire, maybe because they did not have any green/yellow ??? You need to trace out the red over sleeved conductor and see if it is in fact the earth at the ceiling light.

BernardGreen, I was referring to the original post :D Taylortwocities, I agree in an ideal world :shock: Vertical and horizontal are ok for me, diagonal is a big no no.

Well I read the whole thread again, and I cannot see the word "diagonally" mentioned, other than in your post !!!!! I think the previous post was in reference to the bathroom zones 1,2,3

The 17th Edition will be published and available in January 2008 and will not be a draft, it will be the full edition New certificates from the NICEIC will be available by the time the new edition is published. Old style certificates will then be limited stock. It will up to you what...

You can work from the 16th or 17th Edition when published in January 2008. to July 2008, then it will be 17th only. 17th Edition all circuits in bathroom on Rcd

Is this a single fan assisted oven, if so it will be fused down to 13A, behind the oven, or at least it should be. I have found them connected direct to an outlet plate fed from the cooker and fused at 32A on the FB.

Load on 3 (switch live calling) Live Nuetral The symbol just shows that your load will require a nuetral. Depending on your cable, normally Red or Brown = Live Yellow or Black = Switch Live (calling) Blue or Grey = Neutral

No what it is showing is the load schematic with a N on the other side of it. The terminal on the other side of the load symbol is the switch live.

Why 1.5mm2 do you work for the council ???? They are only ones that use 1.5mm and when you ask why, they don't know.