MICC Wiring

[Penelopejean]

Steve3498......Thanks very much for your reply infact I'm very encouraged at how helpful you all are......

Anyway re these in-line joints....is it possible to cut out a section and then make 2 joints to replace the damaged section?
This would be far the easiest option as everything is hidden under the plaster/rendered walls. We would get a trained electrician to do it for obvious reasons.
The busy electrician that we called out wasn't prepared to make a repair as he said that it wouldn't be certifiable and not the proper way to do it. He's quoting for a complete rewire but is still not sure how to do the lighting.

I'm now trying to find where my husband has stored the pictures we've taken again so I can post them!

 

[Steve3948]

Yes you would want to use two in order to carry out the repair.

They are designed for the purpose and you should be able to pick them up from the Electrical Merchants, they may have to order in.
They will not be cheap, MI stuff never is.

 

[tim west]

Terminating inside a besa box could be a cheaper alternative giving access to the terminations. Depending where the damage is, what the cable was feeding, say if it was a switch it may be possible to move it up in height and remake off the pyro? if too high then a besa through box could be used to join two pyros.

 

[Steve3948]

True this would be cheaper, but depends on if you want to maintain the fire rating of the cable.

Also the conduit box is much wider than the 20mm MI Joiner, worth considering when chopping out the wall.

 

[Penelopejean]

Hope this works

Yayeeeeeeee I did it.
Thanks to all you chaps for your help.
As you can see it's in a bad way because the wall had been very very damp from a hot water tank.
Is there any hope do you think?[/img]

 

[Steve3948]

Screwits, this is an old installation.
If so the MI may not be metric and this could make things more tricky.
The bottom right MI looks like it could be the damaged one, so only the one joint plus a new short length of MI back into the box would be required.

I wonder why MI was used in the first place, has it always been a domestic dwelling ???

Did the single box have a blanking plate on it.

 

[Penelopejean]

Oh dear..This is a private block of flats that was built using a council flat format I can only assume back in the sixties.
(My daughter has an ex council flat in Putney and her wiring is the same but the previous owner had new style sockets put on the front which I'm told is not earthed which is worrying.)
Anyway this socket in the photo was behind a load of old sixties cupboards and it didn't have a cover on it just thin ply. It looks bad because water came thro' the bathroom wall (caused by the hot water tank) into the kitchen for about 3 months when we had tenants there. Would that make the repair more difficult because of deterioration of the box/terminations etc?

 

[tim west]

might not be so bad apart from the imperial/metric problem would have to remove the gland from the damaged cable to see what the markings are on it.

remove the damaged cable from the box and then lower the box say a foot to allow for stripping back of damaged pyro then putting both cables back in from the bottom of the box, obviously job for a sparks though.

 

[Steve3948]

Going back some years, you could get imperial/metric conversion kits, or use the pot wedge system, but I have not seen them for years.
I understand they don't make them any more due to the wedge coming loose if any vibration in the cable happened.

There was also a black resin repair kit that replaced the screw pot and the wedge pot, however just did a quick google and cannot find them, perhaps a thing of the past.

Will have another look later.