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thanks I will phone building control today , i've already got a few notices in so another won't hurt , heh what is wrong with using glass fibre insulation? I'd like to use celotex or similar but it's so expensive compared to the fibre what ply would i need, just 25mm wbp structural...

thanks I did not know the new room would be notifiable although my plan mostly included what the regs ask for anyways is this a legal requirement or just if I want a certificate? I will definitely consider going the ply route if i'm going right onto the joists , although i've already...

You might be right but when I bought my house there had been signs of leakage in the kitchen ceiling, when I removed the ceiling there was no plumbing anywhere near the damp spots, the leak was infact coming from various plumbing around and under the bath which was 4 metres away from the damaged...

are you sure you know where the leak is? any visible signs could just be where the waste is seeping through,, the leak could be elsewhere

Ok, got the trench dug to about 850mm deep, as far as i can tell my foundations are slightly less than the 750mm although i didn't have anything to poke through to see how far in i could get, so i think will have to come under them would some corrugated ducting passed through with pipe...

18-25mm ply on top of the 22mm chipboard? hmm I'm going to end up with an inch step in the middle of my kitchen/diner which is what I really wanted to avoid really what about no more ply? will that work? as for an expansion gap, how would I go about that? do you mean a gap between...

due to the makeup of the house it's impracticle to place a stopcock other than about 12 metres into the house, do you think that would be acceptable?

I have the same problem with the depth so trench 750mm minimum then through the wall using a soil pipe filling any gaps with expanding foam when it comes into your house you didn't put anymore ducting ? how did you cope with the sharp angle where the pipe needs to bend? thanks...

Whilst my suspended floors are up i'm going to replace the lead water mains I'm accepted onto the free replacement scheme and understand what they want me to do on my end more or less the only trouble i'm having is understanding the ducting and insulation + sealing the pipe on the exit...

No UFH, it was an idea but I've canned it. The insulation I have right now is glass fibre, this is what I had planned to use No tile size as yet, I'm just planning ahead can the ply be thinner? the joists are at 400 ctrs with 22mm t&g and seems fairly solid , not sure I want to...

HI The joists are already down and I already had to raise them up an inch where they meet the concrete end, I didn't want too much of a slope I could level the concrete flush with the chipboard and screw/glue ply to that? not sure if that brings in its own problems?

My kitchen diner is 9 metres long by 3.6 metres wide 7 metres of the floor is suspended and I'm going to t&g chipboard over the joists, the other or last 2 metres is concrete which isn't flat, I'm going to build a stud wall over about 1.4 metres of the concrete part to make a utility room...

Yeah about that

thanks for the replies I will try and get a photo soon it's just the top part that is damaged and it runs about flush with the top of the risers, it's structurally sound but looks nasty so I really just need a way of hiding it by putting up a false string over it once i've plasterboarded...

You can get long lengths of timber but it may have to be specially ordered, my local yards do a maximum of 5.6m which is what i've just bought to replace my kitchen/diner floor I did look for longer lengths as I needed 7metres and there are a few places on the net but there's a surcharge...

Whilst stripping plaster from a wall a while ago I rather stupidly tried to remove what I thought was just skirting from the stairs that enter my attic, the wood split right along the length and has left a mess , I believe they call the piece it the inner string? is it possible to repair...

nope, metal herringbone struts, they were slightly twisted before hand , it's nothing too bad though In any case the joists are fine, the problem is with the rafters , or at least making the join between the rafters and studwall/eaves cupboards look parallel to the floor

the joists are definitely flat within a few mm, I checked them out with a decent laser level as I put them in, they have slight twists but along the length they are really good for flatness, much better than the lot of joists I got for the kitchen/diner I'll get some lines up tomorrow and...

thanks for the advice I have a feeling this job is going to be a ballache heh I will probably opt for some kind of battens or shimming , I will get a string line up and see how it looks, scratch my head a bit , suck through my teeth, swear a little then decide which way to do it the...

what would be the easiest way to do this so that I get it all level? I want the room to look nice and flat, I'm not spending all the time to renovate for it just to look the same :)