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Functionally fine, aesthetically ? - but only temporary.

If it's your first time soldering, with a torch that is not the best for the job, I's stick to solder ring.

Heat transfer paste on the foil strip(s) then wrap round the pipe then a bit more on the freeze head.

1. I've used the same machine on plastic (Hep2O, not MDPE). No issues except that you need to ensure the freeze head stays attached to the pipe. Couple of cable ties in addition to the usual screw worked for me. 2. You will presumably use the 28mm head. Wrap some strips of aluminium foil...

1. If you are using an electric freezer you can get away with only a few mm clearance from the freeze head to a fitting. The head itself is about 60 mm wide (varies with make but not by much). 2. Given you have 150mm to play with you should be OK, BUT as soon as it is frozen, get the old...

1. With regard to melting and rotating the tee's you could possibly do it, but: 1.1 You'll have to remove the pipes coming from the central branch. 1.2 I wouldn't try it without extra flux. 1.3 There mustn't be even a drop of water in the pipes or tees. 1.4 Personally, I'd add a bit of new...

From memory, any socket used should be unswitched. This is to ensure that the plug must be pulled out disconnecting both live and neutral.

1. Copper or plastic can be used, except that: 1.1 Most boiler manufacturers specify copper for at least one metre from the boiler. 1.2 It used to be that plastic piping could not be used for domestic hot water with a secondary circulation system. Check with manufacturer of pipe and fittings...

1. Insurance won't necessarily get you a rapid fix to problems. Also tends to be overly expensive in the long run. 2. If anyone wants a bath, rather than a shower, be aware that the time to fill a bath can be excessive. 3. Before making any decision you need to know that the incoming mains...

1. First two pictures (RHS of joint, ...728, ...723) look fine. 2. Last picture (LHS of joint, ...718). Almost certainly fine, but I'd prefer to see a more distinct solder ring at the edge of the fitting. Did you wipe it with a damp cloth while still hot?

Does the screwed bit with a point unscrew from the thin handle? If so it may be an Allen grub screw. You would take the screw out, screw it in to secure the main part of the handle onto the valve spindle, then screw the thin part of the handle back onto the Allen grub screw.

Those look like 22mm pipes to me. If so, then likely to be central heating and not the hot and cold to the basin.

Possibly to ensure there is a source of hot water in the event the boiler is out of action.

1. You can get a blanking plug for the spigot to which the washing machine used to be connected. Mcalpine do them. 2. If water was coming out of the currently unsealed spigot, it suggests to me there is some sort of partial blockage in the drainage system. If there wasn't, waste water would...

1. As terryplumb, match insert to pipe manufacturer. 2. But don't use the JG Superseal inserts (the ones you have suggested) with compression fittings, use the plain (no O ring) inserts. The superseal ones can end up with an O ring right where the olive goes.

Is the boiler running constantly while heating the house, or does it run for a bit, stop for a bit then start running again? If so it points to a circulation problem. The boiler can't get rid of the heat fast enough, so overheats, turns itself off and waits until the water cools and then...

Two right angle elbows, two compression wall plate elbows and two short lengths of pipe?

1. As above, its nothing to do with the size of boiler. 2. If its a combi boiler, the likelihood is that you have inadequate mains pressure and / or flow rate.

1. Take the round part of the handle off the valve (should pull off the spindle inside). 2. Try fitting the handle lever. Then: 2.1 If it goes in, try re-orienting the round part on the spindle per trojanhawrs above. 2.2 If it doesn't, try and post a photograph of the internal thread, or at...

Looks like rodent damage to me.