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Is 600mm centres ok for 18mm chipboard? It is round the eaves so no large/heavy objects (other than myself, occasionally).

I am after some internal (French doors) for between a hall & kitchen. Half-glazed; with sidelights. Does anyone have any ideas where I could get some made (on a budget)? Thanks.

Thanks. I was anticipating that I might raise the 147mm by 97mm (to 244mm) and the 174mm by 70mm (also to 244mm). This would mean minimal squashing and presumably 18mm chipboard adds some insulation value... What is the best way to attach to joists? A screw on the diagonal? (Some are...

Thanks, that is what I intend to use; But need timber joists to raise them above the 270mm of insulation (I have edited my OP to make that clearer). How much compressing of insulation is deemed ok?

I am due to board out my loft eaves with chipboard; unsure what type of timber is most suitable (and economic) to raise up the boards. Current joists are a mix of 147mm (side eaves) & 174mm (rear eaves). The boarding is to allow access and for lightweight storage. Thanks

I would like to; but that is not how it is really working on this build. I liaise with the main contractor (mainly by email) as I am at work whilst they are on site; so only see them intermittently for a site meeting.

Yup. Work is part of a larger house refurb that is currently being done. I am ‘engaged’ with the main contractor; so whilst I have an electrician, I have not yet met/spoken to them...

Thanks all; think I will go with the 2 spots, switch outside.

Thanks, it just has a basin & wc (I had presumed that these might mean it needed special rules). Is it usually preferable to put the light switch on the inside or outside?

Thanks. Would a wall lamp need any bathroom rated if it was operated from the switch outside the door? i.e. https://www.castlegatelights.co.uk/dar-lighting-tack-single-light-wall-fitting-in-antique-chrome-finish-complete-with-textured-glass-shade-p38099

What would be the best way to light this small room. The room is v.small (900 x 1700mm) but has an awkward ceiling. I would like to avoid too much shadowing. I was thinking 2x led spot lights: - 1x standard led spot above the WC (head height is 2.1) - 1x on tilting led spot sloping season...

This might work ok without sacrificing too much. Kitchen is a bit smaller; but utility & shower room are better/bigger. (Although personally I would probably squeeze showerroom & utility to left side; and have an entrance into the kitchen from the entrance hall).

Ok, so if I have a 32A switch with a 6mm² cable then I should be ok. The CU breaker will trip, I turn down the power and wait for it to cool and then I should be Ok to start cooking again. (But realistically, it should never trip)

A variant of the 2nd design with no access to the old extension on the left might work. You would construct it with a 50mm air gap. What are you going to use the room behind the entrance hall for?

My builder / his electrician has done the first fixed and the plan is for a 30A cooker switch. I understand that this should be ok with a 14.8kw range due to diversity. (Rangemaster 110 Induction). If it did trip (say Christmas dinner), would it just be a case of turning down the load (switch...

How much headroom do you have in the current loft? Looks like it will be tight.

You could try this: https://exceljet.net/formula/strip-non-numeric-characters

Thanks for you thoughts. I would probabaly have to fix to masonary wall by either (a) taking out a brick and resting on/in the wall, (b) attaching to a stringer. No problem with a structural wall; it is the location that concerns me. If the structural wall is under the newel post then I might...

How would you join these? Bolt through the side of the newel into the side of the stud wall?

Here are a couple more pics this evening. Contempating running a joist from the blockwork wall to the left newel to support the right newel. But do have some concerns that Building Control will have an issue with it. [Trying not to get left with a WC that is too narrow. Confused...