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I've noticed some cracking to our house's rear wall. It seems to start from around 50cm up and probably travels another 1.5m in a fairly continuous line. Anyone know what this could be? I'm waiting for a local builder, that we've used in the past, to get back to me to arrange a time for him to...

I have an old, approx 5", soil pipe that runs below a solid slab that I need to fill/block/seal before laying insulation etc. I can only see 4" expanding plugs at Toolstation which aren't big enough. The other end of the pipe connects to the mains sewerage pipe below ground level, which I...

Our floor detail is to be 100mm reinforced concrete on top of 200mm EPS insulation, with UFH pipes ran in the concrete. If I was using screed, I'd attached the stud wall sole plates to the concrete, before fitting the insulation, pipes and screeds, but because the concrete itself will be our...

No external walls, but at the other side of the new brick wall is beam and block which is ventilated so I could fit an extractor/air brick in that wall to increase circulation. The floor, which look to be tiles direct to soil, is visibly damp. My suspicion is the air vents at the other side of...

Block and beam has been installed over our basement at ground floor level, with a brick wall built to separate the new B&B floored room and what was the access to the basement, now just a cupboard under the stairs. There are a couple of telescopic air vents under the B&B floor as per building...

As soon as the loops are up to temp, the return from the UFH manifold remains low, but the return to the boiler is much hotter - I assume because the bypass valve is then kicking in.

Makes sense, thanks. Will turning the UFH flow temp down too much not cause the boiler to start short cycling? Modulating down as far as it can, still producing too much heat and turning off - rinse and repeat whilst the UFH is calling for heat?

I suspected as much :( The flow temp is currently 45, which is 5 degrees lower than the UFH design suggested (pipes in Cemfloor screed, tiled finish), I can try lowering it further. - with the boiler set at 65 degrees and the UFH mixer set lower (say 40) cause any problems of their own? If I...

It'll be 1,150m UFH pipe in total (550m + 600m) and based on the heat loss calc I had done the older part of the house (no wall insulation, high ceilings etc) requires ~ 125w/m² so approx 6.9kW for the original property (550m x 125w/m²) and approx 4.5kW for the extension (600m x 75w/m²) total of...

1850's house, solid walls, no wall insulation, approx 300mm rockwool in the loft. 9 radiators (another 5 once the extension's up), 3 UFH zones, 6 loops, approx 550m of pipe in total, (another zone and 600m of pipe once the extension's up). 2 bathrooms (another 2 ensuites once the extension's up)...

We have TRVs on all but two rads upstairs; the bathroom towel rail and the landing rad, nearest the thermostat. When the new heating system was fitted, the rads don't seem to have been balanced at all - some rooms were getting warmer than others, the landing rad was getting warmer quicker than...

When we moved into our house we found the majority of the downstairs floor joists to be rotten, including the one the the flight of stairs up to the first quarter landing was resting on. The staircase was propped up whilst a new floor slab was laid and a new wooden frame built under the first...

Turns out our "new" house has a septic tank. Half of the property was switch to mains sewerage at some point (downstairs w/c and bathroom), but the other half (en-suite) is still going into a septic tank. The previous owners, who had lived there for 30 years had no idea about it, so needless...

New pipework's in, plumber measured the flow again - we went from 10l/m to 18l/m. Which is an improvement, but not as much as I was hoping for. Turns out the connection to the meter is only 1/2 BSP, but Yorkshire Water are coming out to replace that (apparently the external stop tap and chamber...

We had a new water supply and heating system fitted a couple of weeks ago. 32mm MDPE into the house, straight into a Unvented Cold Water Group Set (after stop cock, drain etc), which I'm told is to regulate the hot and cold water to the same pressure, and then teed off for the rest of the house...

I'm running a new water supply. From the meter it will tee off; straight ahead for a garden supply and right for the house supply. I'm running 32mm MDPE from the meter, 25mm for the garden and 32mm into the house so I want to reduce "the straight" down to 25mm rather than on the 90 degree tee...

Makes sense, thanks! Beams would be going in below our new (chemical) DPC so I was going to wrap the ends before sliding them into the pockets. Would that be ok?

Architect has specified block and beam be installed over our cellar, which will become the floor for our new utility room. We don't mind losing the cellar to make the space more practical. The beams have been spec'd and will be ordered this week. Our builder's suggesting we could fit them DIY...

Yorkshire Water came out, they measured at 16 litres per minute using their cup, which is odd. The guy did say there was something wrong with the meter on the footpath so he's painted that blue (??) and has scheduled for it to be replaced, and he said that might give us another couple of litres...

We’ve recently had a new concrete subfloor poured. It will be finished with insulation and then screed. When we had the concrete poured we had to suspend the staircase in the air so we could pour under it, it now needs resupporting from the floor. Should it be resupported directly against the...