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I usually take an 8x4 sheet of board and half a bag of multi to all the jobs i price. I then give them a price and get my paddle mixer out while they talk about the price. I knock up a bit of multi and plaster the 8x4. They look in amazement and say Oh that looks lovely :D I then get a...

Fred, Get a young lad to knock up for you, You must have a relative or friend who would love to earn a few quid for their weekend beer money? It really does make life MUCH easier if you don't have to leave the job to start cleaning your tools and knocking up another mix in between.

I would'nt just stop at refusing to pay him, I would make him put it right.

LOL :D he who looks, finds. :D

wanabe, I'm currently doing our bedroom and we were thinking of a full length walk in wardrobe, If your passing sunny blackburn one day soon, how you fancy knocking a few bits of wood together for us :D

What site ? Gis us a look :lol: go on you know you want to

Agree with Noseall. I bond heavily textured ceilings then skim. Fred, how do you price your jobs if you are doing 2 visits ? must work out expensive. I don't like the idea of pva then skim then pva wet plaster to give another coat. why didn't you just dampen the plaster slightly...

Fattony, I did has you signature asks, are you starting your own diy forum ?

I had a neighbour a few years ago who was a bit of a self proclaimed DIY king. Anyway he decided to knock through the living/dining room. The joists for the 1st floor were staggered on the wall that he removed. You will NEVER guess what he did to take the load of the continuing wall on the...

I fit these types of ceillings quite often in bathrooms. I would STRONGLY advise that you re board your ceilling before you fit UPVc cladding. im sure there will be a fire hazard issue here but noseall or softus will be along shortly and clear that bit up. I would also advise you to use...

Richard, Yes you can get stainless angle bead, end stop and bellcast. I use it externaly but only when going over old pebbledash (plastic is a pain over rough surfaces). If i was rendering bare brick then i would use plastic. Internally i use galvanised. So far as magnetic stainless is...

Have to agree with everyone else on this one. that is an awful lot of money for one room. I plastered an extension last week (single storey) consisted of a living room 10' x 16' and a utility room 8' x 8' square. boarded the ceilings and bonded the walls NOT bloody dry lining, except the old...

Do you think this is one of those topics that will go on for pages and pages and pages? Then at the end the OP still hasnt got an answer :D Who remembers Legs and Jbonding when they used to argue about plastering :shock: Happy days.

Jesus Fred, Just give the guy a price. No need to explain every detail has to how you have arrived at the price. You'll be telling us your life story next :D

If you have rubbed it up with a poly float then it will be rough enough. If you have troweled it a little like skim then give it a coat of SBR and get it skimmed

Well, If i lived near you (which I dont) and if you had called me (which you havent) then I would charge you £80 to £100. Depends how deep the pattern is.

Banana, As Fred says, The amount of water required will vary. I use an hose pipe if theres one around. Give it a good soak mate, then leave it for 10 mins before you start. There is a basic video on This site that shows applying the final coat. It may help a little. There are a...

Ah, I see. Thanks guy's for clearing that up for me. I gather the overhall finish with the trade stuff is far superior then.

Use screws. then tape over joint and screws with your scrim.

Even if your plasterer did use galvanized beads they shouldn't have rusted, especially seeing yo say these are internally. I would be more concerned where the dampness is coming from, allowing the beads to rust.