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OK, so I'd appreciate an opinion from someone else here, just to be on the safe side :) I'm moving to BT from VM (Long story, but totally oversubscribed area, and internet is worse than useless), and I've got no BT master socket whatsoever. To the best of my knowledge, there has been no BT...

Finally getting round to fixing the spark on my cooker :) It's an ancient Parkinson Cowan Acclaim, and the spark is powered by a battery. Sadly I've got no instructions for it, but I've pulled out the existing battery which appears to be a standard Rayovac D-Cell from under the flap at the...

From skimming other Ferroli manuals, this appears to be a PCB error code. Not a boiler engineer mind, so wait for an opinion from someone else with practical experience :)

I dunno why Code 5 specifically, all I can tell you is that's whats in the quote :) The final quote now looks like this: £1020 inc. VAT (£850 figure turns out to be ex. VAT) Again using Code 5 lead, but also proposes to take off the tiles for 1m on either side (Next rafters I think), and...

Treated for what? I've got a dry rot guarantee somewhere dating from the 1980s when the roof was replaced if that's what you mean? Access isn't bad, if a little narrow. I'll try and get a picture at some stage tomorrow. Cheers

It's pretty standard tiles AFAIK. Number three has now provided a quote of £1286, to include new lead, felt overlapping & replacing rotten boards as appropriate. He doesn't specify the lead type, but does provide a 10 year insurance backed warranty. The height isn't anything special, just a...

It never rains, but it pours :? Replaced the boiler this spring, and now I've got a leaking lead valley :( From the inside, you can see the bottom foot or so of board is visibly rotten (~12ft- 13ft length), and there is a small amount of water ingress. Outside, the lead has been gone over...

Either one or more likely a pair of double sockets to provide some future spares, along with the current set of 4-ways. The primary thinking behind the fused spur is that it just lets me quickly and simply pull anything I've added in the models out of the equation in the case of tripping. Also...

It's more than I'm planning on running several transformers and a lot of other bits and bobs off this (8 plugs in two 4-ways), and some of the models are high value kit. Nothing directly requires it's own fuse, but I'm trying to avoid problems. Edit:Total load is well under 13a at the minute...

I've got a radial socket circut upstairs. Best I can tell, this goes from the CU to a junction box somewhere under the stairs, and then in a star shape to the 4 sockets connected to this circuit. I've only got one cable from the CU & each socket has a single cable, hence the radial & shape...

OK, possibly a slightly stupid question (My speciality!) I'm in the middle of redoing my loft to give me a basic floor and stuff sufficient for model railway use, nothing fancy. I've now been insulating right up to the eaves over the last couple of days, and I've discovered there is *no* air...

Bump after a few days :) Had a chat with another guy that I know (Hadn't thought of him before as he's several hundred miles away from the boiler ), he reckons the leak could well be cause for a safety fail, although he would need to see the boiler. He thinks a Baxi or possibly a Glow-Worm...

Cheers, that's useful :) Powerflush wise, from what I've been reading most manufacturers would want this done on the boiler install, and wouldn't care about it being done 'only' a year or two earlier? With the dirt/ corrosion issue, the central heating water is relatively clean on bleeding...

For which option? At the moment, I seem to have an immediate £200 bill (valve leaking) and a second £200 bill/ extra £100 ish. to replace the pump as and when. After that I obviously don't know how long it'll take something else to fail, and his opinion was that it might last months before...

Engineers verdict is that the diverter valve needs replacing as a minimum. Pump is dodgy, but will keep going for an indeterminate time. He estimated that I'm looking at approx £200 for the valve and bits, and is going to get back to me with exact pricing. Having said that, his 'honest'...

Somewhere about 10 years old would be the best I could do. Came with the house :) Awaiting someone who may be able to take a look tomorrow, so we shall see.

Thanks :) Anyone happen to have a reccomend for someone in Norwich? I've had several people over the phone who reckon it's basically not worth the trouble of trying to fix it (Good money after bad keeps being mentioned), a couple who don't do Aristons and various who haven't got back :lol: