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Going back to an earlier question, would it ok to use something like toupret interior filler along this edge? Only a small section would be touching the timber batten. It's only about 19mm in depth. I know it's not ideal aesthetically, but I could tile right up to this corner and add a trim...

Will do a bit of measuring but I'm wondering whether it would easier to install plasterboard (say 12.5mm) and make it flush with the new plumb line by using adhesive? Is this a doable option?

I was wondering if Im going to plaster some of the already installed Hardie, would a better option to build out the rest of this wall with plaster so it's all flush? Then I can just extend the door liner? Then can just use any architrave as it'll be flush Question is whether I can plaster over...

It's just the photo. Although it bows in the middle a little, but mostly, it's build out is fairly consistent along this vertical

Hi all, I've installed Hardie backer boards in our bathroom and tanked using mapei waterproofing kit. Just wondered if I still need a primer to plaster over this? (Plaster section won't be in a critical wet area)

Ideally I was going to make it flush but the wall is so far off square. I would have to board over about 60mm. Photo shows the now square plumb line to the other side of the door. Is there an option where if I smooth and paint the existing casing to blend in with the plasterboard (so no...

Do you mean fit the planed timber on the edge of the Hardie board/batton? If you mean glue and screw like an architrave, I still have the issue of what to do on that exposed hardieboard edge?

I don't think can. The existing door casing is actually screwed to the stud wall to the left. I haven't uncovered above the wall above the door or to the right but assume there's smaller frames attached above the door. But I don't want to risk any structural problems by removing this timber...

Do you mean the rest of the wall around the door? It's just painted plasterboard I believe. IF I board the rest, it will help with the architrave being on one level. But still leaves the question on what to do with the thin edge (it's Hardie backer board and small slither of timber baton...

Hi, Due to walls of the bathroom not being square, I had to build out one side of it. This resulted in a thin edge protruding out. I was thinking about tiling just past where the shower screen would be and then plaster the rest - or can tile all the way round. But I was wondering what the...

Thanks. That's good then. I can use it for the walls and get a new bag for the floor. Thanks!!

Thanks all. Will give them a try but suspect it's not flex. Do wall tiles need flex? Just wondering if the bag Ive got isn't flex, whether I can still make use of it

Thanks, thats really useful. But problem is that the one I got doesn't have any of those brand/model names. It does say on the packet it's suitable for showers and use even in underwater. But I just didn't know if I really need to get one where it's certified S1/S2 as I see people say best to...

It's the only datasheet on the site. And I can't seem to find anything on this product on Google! I guess for bathroom floor/wall tiles, it has to be flex(S1/S2)?

Yes I have but I have no idea what to look out for here.

Ahhh ok, I'm only tiling the bath wall and up to the door frame so don't need to tile above or below any doors or windows. I will be dry fitting the wall tiles to make sure there's no tiny slither piece at bottom/top/side. I might just make sure there's tile adhesive in the smallest gaps along...

Also, anyone able to help with my second question. What to do with the back wall join lines? Do I silicone first and then tape&tank, then silicone once tiles are on? Or do I simply leave it, tank and then silicone, tiles and silicone again?

Uh oh, I hadn't factored in height of door or window. Why is that? I simply marked out where I would want it when standing up in the bath and measured the height of the niche factoring all the layers(tiles/adhesive/HB) needed.

I was hoping to use a little tile adhesive so to help level it a tiny bit (it's ever so slightly unlevel to leaning left) and then thought about just making a little bit thicker to help make up the height

Thanks. Hoping it would be ok. I didn't know whether to put some more tile adheives in between the two sheets of HB or just stack them and screw tight. Yes, I've already tilted the noggin so it has a small fall towards bath.