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Hi, Couple of questions please: 1) originally, I was going to use 12mm hardieboard for around the shower niche but trying to use 6mm instead as my leftover piece of 12mm got wrecked by the kids. As can be seen from photos, the gap is quite big and was hoping to have one tile to fit the space...

I did think about that bit the boards are up now and you would still get the problem of what it would look from the side? Guess we would see exposed tiling adhesive and side of tiles. I'm thinking of whether to add the HB fibatape on the outside corner of the boards and just plaster it and...

Window packers would help with making the architrave the right level with he tiles and every will look fine only is looking at the tile head on. The packers would then be visible from the side as you walk in. Haha guess then I would still need to find a strip of wood exactly the right size and...

Yes, hence I'm having a bit of a headache over this conundrum. I even thought about trying to find a thick enough architrave and then rebate cut it so it can sit over the tile. It would need to be something around 25mm though...

Yes, that's what I was thinking is only option but difficult part of finding a packer to fit this width and depth will be difficult (32mm width and depth probably 25mm ish - although guess depth can be slightly flexible depending on thickness of tile adhesive

No, if you look at the photo of the existing section, the Hardie board will be at the same level with it.

As I've built out the right vertical stud. I now have this extra bit of wall protruding out from the door frame. Any suggestions on how I can easily treat this? In guessing it'll be difficult to find a frame to fit exactly this size (Happy to and was expecting to remove the rest of the the...

Thanks both. @RandomGrinch yes, I have HB's fibatape and will be doing option A. Thanks both

Hi, all, got a couple of areas where Hardiebacker cracker off (my fault I know). But wondered if it's best to: A) use their scrim tape, and fill it it deeper when I go to to do the joints with tile adhesive B) find small bits of board and patch fix it with adhesive/filler C) just use toupret...

Thanks for your advice all, just as feedback/update. I decided to glue and screw a thin baton to the right hand vertical stud. Use treated c16 for a new vertical stud (fitted quite nicely) and noggins to support. Sturdy for most part except the smallest flex in the new vertical (back and...

Ahh ok thanks. Thats what I was thinking. Scared me thinking you were suggesting adhesive onto the pipe

Actually quick question, when you full of adhesive, so you mean adhesive surrounding even the copper pipe? So that there is no flex? Will need to make sure everything is mm correct cos a little flex would help fitting the shower bracket.

Thanks for the peace of mind. Perfect answer!

I have a thin cavity wall. So the plastic end of the elbow joint will be flush with the Hardie board. Is this ok? I see normally it should just be the copper pipe through the HB board but I was hoping I can just make sure the hole is big enough and as there'll be adhesive and tiles to go, the...

Thanks. People say to use construction glue for shims but wondered if using D4 wood adhesive is ok here?

Yes, the gap is actually 67cm as it's the *** paramount wall. Are you worried about the stud spacing being too wide for HB? I will be adding additional studs and noggins to came up the space and also to provide something for the edges for the HB boards to screw into. I probably don't need as...

Just did more testing. If I was to shim it, the gap is bigger than I thought as you can see in the first couple of photos. However, as it is so big, I could fit a baton on the furthest vertical stud. And then in the middle I could add plywood sheet or firring if I could find one. Question...

I do have their scoring tool but I find it hard to get any real depth to it. Definitely not enough to make up the 15mm gap. I do have the mapei tanking kit. Would silicone stick better once HB is tanked? As I was going to be using it to stick the bath against it and the batton anyway

Any suggestions on best way to shim it? Little plastic wedges/foam pads? Firring? Plywood? I was hoping it'll be the whole face of the stud and not wedges to avoid floating wall. Mainly as the Hardie backer screws are only 35mm. If HB board is 12mm, gap is around 10-20mm, it doesn't leave...

I did also think about this but to make a cut this long on a hardiebacker in situ is giving me headaches. The stuff is hard to cut accurately especially small slither like this to fit a straight edge bath. I would have thought to leave a 3mm gap above the bath edge and would need to silicone...