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Thank you and great idea. Do you mean something like the sketch? If so, there will be a small void space between the batton and L shaped seal (highlighted in purple). I assume I would just fill it with sealant. But if I'm doing that, is there real point to the L shaped seal?

But if I do that, same problem will arise as it still won't be square. Wall would be just thicker? Unless you mean shim it? I was thinking about as an option but worried about screwing the shower screen onto a shimmed wall

Hi, Done one wall of Hardie backer and realised the walls not square. This leaves a little gap on one of the walls (depending on which wall I square it). I was hoping that as normally, you'd tile over the bath lip, it may help cover the gap. Tried placing a tile against the wall and I'm...

Hi all, I was going to add a vertical noggin to the paramount wall to help support the shower screen. Is it best to simply screw through the Hardie backer (12mm) and into the noggin. Or make a hole into he Hardie and noggin and use a wall plug?

Thanks. You may be right about the depth. Will have a test

Thanks. Sounds like a plan. I'll be adding thicker noggins on the left cavity wall anyway for the Hardie backer edges so hopefully can help with the strength of both studs. At the moment, the shower feed ends are same as the ones on the photo - plastic pushfit elbows. I know coppers always the...

Ahhh thats a great idea. Something like the sketch? Although the vertical stud is still only 1.5". If I cut through that, would the frame not weaken quite a lot? It's screwed into the left frame but still... Maybe add another noggin above?

The water pipes in the photos actually needs to go under the bath (only there so I can dry fit the bath) as it connects to the shower pump and then the shower. So I will have pipes going from below to feed shower. I was thinking about cutting a notch off the noggin to the right but it's only...

Thanks. Yes it's a weird house. The left hand cavity is 3" and the right is only 1.5" as it was a paramount wall (horrible stuff to take down). And yes, would like struggle to have the cold feed on that right hand cavity. Could the whole shower set potentially be mounted in the left hand...

Anybody able to help? My main question is that if the shower riser rail needs to be screwed to that vertical stud. The bottom of the rail would be the thermostatic shower bar where the water pipes needs to be. Does that mean I need to cut out a section of that stud?

It comes with wall brackets but yes similar (see attachment). Was just gonna get the pipes clipped in the stud wall and mount these brackets. But wasn't sure where to put the actual pipes

Hi all, just dry fitting my bath tubs and shower. Just wondering how to position the water feed to the shower thermo bar? The stud is near middle of the bath so works well with the overhead shower column - assuming this needs to be screwed into the stud. But then I have a problem in where...

Haha no worries. I'm just grateful for the effort and help. So still got a couple of questions from before. Is it ok to use the underground soil pipes instead of the normal soil pipe as it's half the price? And do you think there's risk in having such short two 45degree bends together like...

Is something like this ok? Would I still need the dc1 connector? Can't seem to find McAlpine stuff as they tend only to do pan connectors https://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-push-fit-135-single-socket-bend-black-110mm/63147

I did originally think to try using two 45degree so it pops up close to the centre of the toilet. But can't seem to find many McAlpine 45degree bends pipes? Any idea which adjustable bend you'd recommend. Google shows lots to choose from

Thanks. Slowly convincing me not to bother with Hardie backer. Niche would be that little bit deeper as well. Ots also the waterproofing. I know hardiebackers not water proof but to me seem a more resistant than plasterboard

Thanks. Yes whole shower area will be Hardie backered and got mapei tanking kit. Might just glue it on as I don't fully trust just having a plasterboard support a tile especially as it's a kids bedroom on the other side (factoring in potentially bumps and acrobats etc.)

Looks like including the extra space needed for when the toilet is pulled out, I need over 430mm. So looks like the Flexi would need to be 'up to 600mm' range. McAlpine doesn't do one this long so any recommendations for other brands please? Flomasta? Flopast? Fluidmasta? Viva?

Thanks. Greta idea but I effectively need two 45degree bends to make a 'chicane' going up. If I was to turn this 90degree end piece facing up, I think it may be a weird angle and would need another bend/angled piece. Don't think this would work as I've not got a lot of space to play with

Thanks. I'm thinking that way as well. Is there a way I can almost creat a bracket at tile floor level to help keep it in place a bit better? Only asking as the the overall Flexi section would have to be massive as the pan spigot is set back a bit as well as the distance below current floor level