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yes thats what's happening. i'm thinking maybe the valve head is faulty? but how can i be sure before changing !!:)

that's exactly what i thought. so how can i test to be 100& sure the valve/powerhead of the valve is faulty? I do have some rads getting warm when hot water only is on... but i have not broken the 3 tee's rule as this system was installed over 20 years ago!!! any help appreciated.

surely if when bleeding all air vents (rads/pump/man air vent) if water comes out then there will be no air lock!!!

Just a few quick q's: You cannot have a hot AND cold feed washing machine/dishawasher with a COMBI BOILER system can you? they need to be cold fed only? also to tell if my powerhead to my 3 port valve is faulty is this an appropriate way to be 100% sure: i was advised this but i have my...

the Drayton HTS3 is not your hot water cylinder make but the make/model of your cylinder stat!!

hi agaian-i think it is faulty as some rads warm when only the h/w is on! obviously it isn't closing fully! i have heard you can tell if it is faulty as the spindle or something or lever moves too freely/wobbly? or if it is the mototr gone how can you tell this?? thanks..

How can I tell if a motorized valve (honeywell) is faulty by just removing the case off the actuator head?

maybe you have a low pressure float valve for your mains pressure fed cistern!!

there may be some grit in the shower cartridge? try cleaning it out.

Hi guys-I have a query for you experts!: CAN you buy 110mm diameter size pipe to run a WC pipe (from the pan connector) out of a wall and join it to a Primary Ventilated Stack using a 90 degree bend? Also can you do this push-fit as you can with rubber connectors for 32/40 and 50mm pipe...

if i am right-with a 3 port mid valve (honeywell anyway) - but most are standard colored wiring - hot only and the orange is live (as it is connected to call from the cylinder stat), white and orange: hot water andheating on (valve in mid position), grey white and orange (heating only on) and if...

Hi I drained down my CH system to fit a new TRV - (the vacuum didn't work)!! and I have now refilled it. What are the signs if you have an airlock somewhere on re-filling? I hope i don't have one!

would be easier to just fit new taps (low pressure ones). cheaper thans a pump, quicker and easier to do. saying that it's your call.

Hi-changing my TRV today guys, but come across a small problem. My new TRV is different to my old one and the plastic cap that came with it doesn't fit my old TRV. So WIll I have to drain down the system to replace it? I was hoping to create a paretial vacuum by bunging up the feed and vent...

yep probs best to drain most of the cylinder to be on the safe side then as you may not know how much you have drained and get wet!! lol!!

oh strange - why is this? is it a science thing?!! SO if it was below the top of the cylinder you would need to drain the whole cylinder to change the gate valve? :(

are the external stopcocks easy to turn off? or are they stiff too? maybe if my mate gets a normal stopcock key (for internal stopcocks) this leverage will help him to shut off his stopcock more so than by hand only? i think if both are seized, then surely the water company need to replace...

what's the difference if the gate valve is belowe the top of the hot water cylinder?? you'll just get more wet surely!!

yep was thinking of that. and drain as much hot water from the tap as possible to get a bit more out of the cold feed. but you would still get a bit wet!!!

just thought of this - if a gate valve was stuck or the spindle broke for example - you would need to drain the cold water cistern to change it if it were on the cold water to the bathroom, but if it was on the cold feed to the HW cylinder- to turn change it you would need to drain the cistern...