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Ignore, bought one from B&Q more suitable. Will return the stubby one, as I think it is more for indoor use.

Ignore, I'm a idiot. just a foam disc pad at the bottom that comes out. I was trying to pull the white plastic sleeve out! Appears to be the rectangular valve as expected, plus a big blue nut thing. I ordered this stop cock key https://www.screwfix.com/p/monument-tools-stopcock-key-222mm/17971...

Lifted the flap to the main water stop cock in the street for the first time, and was confronted by seeing nothing there! Is it under the white plastic bit? I did try pulling and it didn't want to budge.

Yep, I'll be careful to make sure that only the top nut turns, and not the whole stop cock. I take it the blue incoming pipe is the water board's property, and everything else after is mine. We don't have a water meter, but out if interest if you did, do you need a specialist key to operate...

I can give it a go, but I think I might buy a stop cock key for the valve in street as a backup in case I bugger it up. No idea what size the one under the flap in pavement outside house is. Does anyone recommend either of these...

I originally thought condensation, but after drying with kitchen roll, the water forms again around the top nut pretty quickly.

It does appear to be forming around the nut at the top of the tap valve, so looks like that's the source. We do have quite high water pressure in our area. Maybe closing the stop cock valve a bit might help? (Fully open at the moment) I could also try gently tighning the nut a bit as well I...

It looks like maybe a leak. Seems to be water present at the nut joint at top of tap valve (I'm not a plumber so excuse my terminology) Also dripping at the bottom of the red gasket seal on the tap valve, but this may be from the water coming out the nut?

Water pool forming under kitchen sink, near where cold water pipes are. Assuming/hoping it is condensation from the warm moist air in kitchen hit the much colder pipework. Unfortunately not having the heating on, or having the windows left open is not an option with OH (don't ask) Is this a...

Swapped the hardwire faceplate over for a single unswitched socket. Not too tricky to fit, just stiff wires and lining up the screws (had to use older long ones, as the socket came with short screws) The new oven has a different shape at the back, which annoyingly won't sit fully flush due to...

Did you not have to counter-sink the backbox into the wall at all? I'm thinking that if I add another backbox, plus the plug sticking out of it, there will not be enough clearance behind the new oven.

I was just going to try and fit the thicker wires (4mm²/6mm² whatever they are) into the terminals of a standard 13A surface mount socket.

Guessing the wires used for hardwired ovens are thicker than normal. Any particular recommendation on surface mount sockets, or would the thicker wire likely fit in any make? Will most likely do a Screwfix run before lockdown.

Thanks for the quick & concise answer (y) I was going to swap the 32A RCD breaker to a 16A one, but thinking the 13A fuse is sufficient enough.

Going to replace a hardwired oven with a new plug corded one. My plan was to just replace the wall plate with a socket plate, so there would be no need to lop off the the plug. Plus it would retain the 13A fuse in the circuit. I was going to leave the consumer unit 32A RCD though. Does this...

Hi Andy, That would work (although not look great), but how would you tackle the joint where the smaller pipe couples to the large downpipe? Cheers.

That is an idea, but if I do that I might as well just bite the bullet and change the box (before the wet season comes)

I think part of the problem is it doesn't have the drop in height to the main downpipe, so the water sits at the right angle joint. I'm assuming the pipe & joints are glued together, but not sure how the smaller pipe is connected to the larger down pipe. If it is glued then that does make...

Hi all, The waste water pipe coming out the bathroom sink/bath is leaking at the right angle bend. What would be the easiest way to tackle replacing the joint & pipework? Assuming I'd have to hacksaw it off, it wouldn't leave a lot to play with? Cheers