Hardwired Oven to Plugged Oven

[KennyPowers]

Going to replace a hardwired oven with a new plug corded one.

My plan was to just replace the wall plate with a socket plate, so there would be no need to lop off the the plug. Plus it would retain the 13A fuse in the circuit.

I was going to leave the consumer unit 32A RCD though.

Does this sound okay sparky wise?

Cheers.

 

[EFLImpudence]

Yes.

 

[KennyPowers]

Thanks for the quick & concise answer

I was going to swap the 32A RCD breaker to a 16A one, but thinking the 13A fuse is sufficient enough.

 

[EFLImpudence]

Yes, you are correct.

 

[Taylortwocities]

I was going to swap the 32A RCD breaker to a 16A one,

No need. It’s fine as it is.

 

[JohnD]

When I had a dual fuel cooker with a 13A plug, I attached a surface mounted 13A socket to the cooker outlet.

Seemed the simplest option to me.

When I changed again I just unwired the socket.

 

[KennyPowers]

Guessing the wires used for hardwired ovens are thicker than normal. Any particular recommendation on surface mount sockets, or would the thicker wire likely fit in any make? Will most likely do a Screwfix run before lockdown.

 

[JohnD]

I used a Crabtree. I think them very sturdy.

However:
the Cooker Connection plate on the wall, has a sort of connector block inside it. The thick cable from the consumer unit connects to it, usually at the top, and the cable to the cooker (likely to be thinner unless you have a huge range which is unsuitable for a plug and socket) connects ino the bottom of the block, and exits downward.

So you can connect the socket into the bottom of the block with a short length of cable. I fitted the socket backbox so it was actually touching the cooker plate, with the connecting cable not visible or accessible. The load on your cooker's 13A plug will not exceed 13Amp. A short length of 2.5mm cable (as used for most socket circuits) will be suitable.

When drilling the fixing holes for the socket backbox, ensure they are clear of the supply cable which is usually in the wall. It probably travels downward from the big cooker switch on the wall, so you can put the socket under the cooker plate. You will be able to see where it enters when you take the plate off.

example
https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/AA45COP.html

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CM2177.html

 

[winston1]

Sockets are wired in 2.5mm cable. No need for thicker. That will fit any make.

 

[Taylortwocities]

Sockets are wired in 2.5mm cable. No need for thicker. That will fit any make.

No they are not always.
A radial socket circuit that has a 32A MCB protecting it would be wired in 4mm² cable, not 2.5mm² cable.

 

[winston1]

No they are not always.
A radial socket circuit that has a 32A MCB protecting it would be wired in 4mm² cable, not 2.5mm² cable.

Not for a single socket as in this case.

 

[KennyPowers]

I was just going to try and fit the thicker wires (4mm²/6mm² whatever they are) into the terminals of a standard 13A surface mount socket.

 

[JohnD]

Is there not already a cooker outlet plate?

If there is, use it.

if you want to put the thick wires into a socket, you will need the extra-deep backbox, because the wires are very stiff. 40mm is the deepest normally available.

There is also a 30mm which I think will not be big enough.

 

[KennyPowers]

Did you not have to counter-sink the backbox into the wall at all?

I'm thinking that if I add another backbox, plus the plug sticking out of it, there will not be enough clearance behind the new oven.

 

[Taylortwocities]

Not for a single socket as in this case.

your statement was an absolute statement. It said

Sockets are wired in 2.5mm cable

Maybe you should have written

Sockets are often wired in 2.5mm cable

Or

Sockets are usually wired in 2.5mm cable

but you didn’t.