New electric oven with plug (old one hardwired)

[busydad]

Good morning,


I have a quick question regarding fitting of a new single electric oven.


The new oven comes with a 13A plug (Indesit FIM33KAIX). My old oven is hardwired into a connection plate behind the oven which is connected up to the cooker switch (I believe 45A?).


I dont want to cut the plug off the new oven, so is there any reason I can't replace the connection plate with a 13A single socket and plug the new oven in? (obviously turning the power off first!)


Is there anything I have missed?


Many thanks

 

[Iggifer]

Nope. Swap the connection plate for a socket. Job done.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

No problem replacing oven outlet plate for 13A socket plate.
Likely cooker circuit is in 6mm conductors, but they normally squeeze into the terminals of a socket plate.

 

[busydad]

Many thanks for your help.

 

[kai]

Use an Unswitched MK socket - they have really generous terminals making it easier to install - The Cooker Control Panel remains the control point switch.

 

[busydad]

Just before I go ahead with this tomorrow, I read on another site about applying for Part P building regulation consent:
http://www.mybuilder.com/questions/v/21069/convert-a-hardwired-outlet-to-a-plug-socket

Is this correct? I've changed plenty of sockets, light fittings etc.. Is this a special case because it concerns the kitchen/oven?

 

[EFLImpudence]

No. Carry on

 

[busydad]

Thanks

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Firstly you must apply for Part P building regulation consent to carry out DIY electrical works.

I wonder in how many other ways he lies and cheats in order to line his own pocket?

Scumbag.

 

[busydad]

Morning, finally getting round to the job in hand. Ive taken off the cover for the cooker connecting plate and found 2 cables with 2 lots of L, E, N. Wasnt expecting that. Power definitely dead to cooker when turned of cooker circuit at consumer unit (and cooker switch) Would you just go ahead and try to connect into socket (will need an MK one as Kai suggested) or put one set of cables into an insulating block?

The socket to the left in the picture is for the hob, so not touching that.
Apologies for the poor quality pic - rubbish phone and poor light.

 

[jj4091]

So you mean 2 cables as well as the cable to the cooker? What else stops working when you switch off the cooker isolator, eg. extractor fan?

 

[busydad]

Yes those cables exclude cooker cable (both sets originate from the wall). The extractor still works as on separate circuit (has a separate fused spur above oven, which kills the extractor when I turn it off). Slightly better pic attached (cooker wire cables out of site but are the new blue, brown colours)

 

[Iggifer]

It's not supplying the socket on the left though no? Those cables don't look like 6mm so you should be able to get them both in the socket anyway

 

[busydad]

No socket on left is also wired separately although in to the same circuit as power to hob killed when turn off cooker circuit.

Took the plate off and the left wires are thin ones - the ones on the right are thicker as you can see. I cant understand what the ones on the left are.

 

[busydad]

Ah... unless the loop around in the wall to supply socket next to it for hob??

EDIT - yes they do. Phew