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Yes there are two screws holding the white top on to the base, undo them and remove the top. that will expose a brass shaft with a flat on it, it is sticking in the body when it turns so that the spring isn't strong enough to return it back to rest, which is hot water only. You need a new 22mm 3...

As long as the opening window is more than 300mm away from the flue terminal either to the side or above it will be acceptable, but terminal should be brought above ground level anyway by at least 300mm and then it would need a terminal guard (basket),

With most boilers you can extend the flue within manufacturers guidelines and that could allow you to put the flue terminal where it would be acceptable, just make sure the boiler is new enough to still get flue spares.

You can safely remove them if you keep them wet, since they won't make dust when wet. but pay to get them taken away, put them in a heavy duty plastic bag that can be sealed. A fine spray of water will do.

If it is close coupled? The cistern sits on the pan, this will only then need 2 large brass screws to fix it to the wall. (brass won't rust) Make sure you use a new rubber doughnut between cistern and pan.

It is impossible to give a firm answer since the sited position of boiler is not known, but there are definite instructions on where a boilers flue can and cannot be. This is a general guide without the picture:- 300 is in mm A Directly below an openable window, air vent or any other...

Search the internet, that's the best option.

I suspect that underfloor heating will have a job pushing out enough heat in the winter with that roof. so rad IMO. tee of with water is ok but that is as long as you have enough water pressure on the existing pipes, if not then that could be a problem. poly pipe is ok in that situation since...

Maybe it needs taking out, and given an overhaul, new diaphragm and seals. If you can't do it get someone who can, looks like that is the next step.

Its a faulty valve, you will find that it will return to hot water only if you remove power from it, but it is not responding to the wire from central heating telling it to go to hot only.

Put the shower on the other end of the bath.

So have you got a manual for it, since I have been looking at mine which is a software of manuals for all boilers, and on page 39 the diagnosis fro hot water problems start and it is not easy to copy properly but it takes you thro the steps the boiler takes, and you then agree and go on or...

How fast does the water flow from the hot tap, is it faster than 2litres/min? And was it the secondary heat exchanger that was replaced, the one that does the hot water?

Any sleeving that protects the copper from the plaster etc will work. But remember where it is or protect it from drilling a hole in it. hanging anything on the wall, picture etc. I have use steel trunking before now to protect copper pipe.

Do you get any fault numbers showing, eg A01 - F42? At a rough estimate I suspect the divertor valves function is suspect but you need someone to check it because the case has to be opened unless fault code can identify it. Have you tried this:-The unit is equipped with a special internal...

About 500mm

Plumbase are good stockist of intergas boiler and spares, but whoever fits it will know that anyway.The last combi I fitted I got for £800 including VAT.

If the fuse has gone the pump won't go, so fuse is ok. The motorised valve has a default position of hot water only when the motor is not energised in it. I don't understand the lever position unless the box is on its side so the the lever is at the top. in which case if that is the same lever...

Ariston are not the best boilers but you may not get the secondary heat exchanger replaced/repaired under any guaranty since the boiler probably wasn't fitted with a limescale reducer or a magnaclene. Both these items protect the secondary heat exchanger so they may want big money for a job that...

That is a discontinued product and this is a web site for them:-http://www.pactrol.com/pdfs/Micro7.pdf