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I have only ever had vented systems, where the occasional bleeding of a radiator or two is automatically followed by the system recharging itself with water from the header tank. And with a natural convection feed to the hot water cylinder (controlled by motorised valve) but a pumped feed to the...

Thanks all for your comments, but I was specifically asking about a pressure reducing valve, not half closing an isolating valve. I have used a half closed Iso-valve to roughly balance flow to a bridge tap (separate internal pipes until end of spout) in the kitchen. This too has mains pressure...

Hi I need to replace a bathroom basin and 2-taps, and the family want a 'modern' mixer-tap. The old plumbing has mains cold water and loft pressure hot water. Is there a suitable pressure reducing valve I could put on the cold, or do I need to provide a loft pressure cold supply? And, isn't...

Hi Just found I never updated on what happened. As encouraged by Dan Robinson and Ollski, I was able to replace just the valve plate/actuator without needing an adaptor plate. Two bolts on the diagonal fixed the valve plate to the body, two further bolts fixed the motor casing through the...

Thanks again No, there is only one motorised valve in my heating system. I might yet get a heating technician in, but I fear they could recommend multitude changes! And with respect to Dan, yes I can see the original failed valve has different fittings - which is why I posted this thread in the...

Thanks everyone for your comments. I am sorry to be so long replying, but I was out all day. Sorry too if I have not used the correct terminology. Please also ignore my comments about the head unit on the new valve being the “other way about”. Where the old valve is, I cannot see by eye the...

Thanks Dan, but will the plate & spindle from the new valve fit fully to the old valve housing? It looks smaller (without taking it apart). I had read somewhere that I would need an adaptor plate to marry new head unit to old valve housing. There is another difference between my old and new...

Hi Can anyone help me? The above numbered motorised valve in my heating system has stuck. It is the old style valve where the head unit cannot be changed (without obtaining some extra plate?). It probably dates from around 1983, so I was quite happy to buy a complete replacement valve. I...

Just got back to a PC and seen the discussion above. Thanks for your response to my posting, which was beautifully clear, and I also enjoyed your continuing discussion. So really, thanks.

Thanks for that helpful reply. AFAIU, supplementary bonding is a failsafe in case the earth is continuous on one extraneous metallic feature but not on another - that could go ‘live’ due to some fault elsewhere. I know that the incoming water main to the house is plastic, but I believe...

I'm not getting much response on the plumbing forum, so trying here instead. While replacing a bathroom suite, I've discovered there is no cross bonding in place. The house is 1990 vintage, and the consumer unit has MCBs and an RCD on just the socket circuits (lights, cooker, etc not...

Thanks, but I am not sure that putting back cross bonding (if there was any) that a previous occupant may have removed really constitutes electrical work. It is a family member's bathroom suite I'm replacing, and certainly I had to put in cross bonding in my own house (with similar split...

Following my previous post on the check valves needed when replacing a bathroom suite, I now see there was no cross bonding in place. The house is 1990 vintage, and the consumer unit has MCBs and an RCD on just the socket circuits (lights, cooker, etc not protected). Should I cross-bond at...

And thanks mfarrow too. The nice thing about putting the check valves after the service valve is they could be easily changed if necessary. They can all go behing the pedestal anyway.

Thanks again Sooey, I'll check the basin mixer, but I don't think they give much information on the product sheet. I didn't see anything about check valves when I first read it, but I'll check again. Actually, from memory, looking up the spout, I could see two holes in the ball valve...

Also, maybe I do need check valves on the cold (mains), but should I put them on the hot too? I have seen that sometimes at mixer taps the cold can force back up the hot pipe giving tepid water at other sinks, but in my case the hot and cold should be at virtually the same pressure.

Thanks, but it seems the answer is unclear. With separate taps, I see that the basin/overflow provides the airgap. With mixer taps (I'm not sure if the ones I have are dual or single flow), there is I suppose a slight chance of backflow. However, the hot and cold feeds are essentially at...

I'm replacing a bath, basin and WC, with associated taps. Hot water originally came via an immersion heater (cold via a roof tank), but this was changed a few years ago to come via a Combi boiler (cold via direct feed). Neither bath nor basin has any service valves, but the bath/shower mixer...

Thanks for your comments - they have put my mind at better ease! I should perhaps have come clean that the cooker is a wedding present for my daughter, and I don't want to have landed her with a large fitting bill. "Like for like" is an interesting concept - a more modern but relatively...

Do I need a new cable/mcb for my new cooker? I hadn’t considered this when I bought it! The cooker seems to be rated as 12.8 kw (at least, that number with no other explanation is on a sticky label on the back of the machine, along with a second label saying main oven alone 2.7 kw). The...