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You can find the slate sealer at the slate shop on Bethesda High Street!

Oops, just read the bit about the roof being not at all exposed so fixings not such an issue after all. As far as cutting the bottom off the tiles is concerned: It is much better to keep the bottom of the tiles on, so lift the tiles behind the skylight higher, i.e put a batten in further up...

Just to be absolutely clear - at this low pitch then more fixings are required - not less!! and as previously stated; if its exposed then every tile will need to nailed and clipped.

If the roof is exposed near the coast or on a hill (ie in a severe exposure area) you will need to nail & clip every tile at such a low pitch. In less exposed areas clipping every other diagonally is usually sufficient. If you not exposed at all - say back yard lean-to away from the coast...

Do your rendering, fit the fascias, put the roof on. There shouldn't be any battens interfering with fitting the fascia?

You need to re-timber it - the right way. Your new timbers should be no more than 450mm apart ideally for fixing 50x25mm slating battens. The pitch should be no less than 22.5deg if your going to slate it.

You say small 'small cracks appearing'. These occur where the lead has been expanding and contracting over the years in the changes of temperature, and will presumably be slightly lifted at these points. If they are not major splits, then you could get many more years out of the lead...

Agreed, its infuriating that the NHBC are pushing these plastic products instead of addressing the real workmanship issues. These plastic and GRP products will all become brittle and begin failing much before 'proper' mortar work fails. I wonder if the NHBC were taking any advice on...

BTW forget Cambrians at this immediate time as you cannot currently buy them (they hope to have them back on the market very soon though) (Marley Melborn is the alternative here) Just found this out too - although I really don't like them was just about to order some for a job - Marley...

I see, you're referring to a timber tilt fillet behind the fascia (wedge shaped batten). If this is in place and is exposed when the roof is on then it is either too high or the fascia is too low? Either way - rip this batten/fillet out, as you don't need it if your installing the eaves...

Mark No slates or tiles will 'look right' at 16-17 degrees, as this is well below the minimum pitch at which double lap slates and tiles will work, therefore you wouldn't see it traditionally and would look unnatural in my opinion. Raise the pitch of the roof if possible, failing this...

Put the eaves tray on over the fascia, nail it to rafters. Then felt, then battens. The lowest batten won't be exposed, as it will covered by the slate. If the slates are relatively small be careful not to cause a water trap between the lowest (eave) batten and the rigid eaves tray...

Don't do it it most definitely is not a good idea!

You can install an extra batten immediately below each normal batten, this will allow you to get an extra fixing point as well as the one that remains exposed, aim for about 50mm in and 50mm down from the head, it will be the same side but will give a solid enough fix, this will only be required...

If the wall your joining is brick or stonework, then installing cavity trays will be a must. It'll be in in the upper regions of your price guestimate

Personally I would strip back to a do a vertical join at a rafter just to the right of the junction of the new ridge and existing hip that runs into it. This will allow the new Tyvek to drain any condensation vertically from from ridge to gutter. If there is existing felt running to the old...

Hello If the existing roof is natural slate(?), you will have to check with planning about putting tiles on in Anglesey Very approximate figures: Strip & re-roof in Tiles £45-60 per m2 Strip & re-roof in Imported Slate or reclaimed Welsh Slate £60-75 Strip & re-roof in new Welsh Slate...

Steve I have been following this with interest, I am an indepenent Roofing Consultant and a Fellow of the Institute of Roofing, however I tend to specialise in Slate Roofs and Lead work, a fellow consultant who may be more suited to help you is Chris Thomas: www.thetiledroofingconsultancy.com...

Insert a copper strap under each tile just below the ridge line, it does mean someone getting on the roof, but the lichen and any other growth will die from the resultant run-off and won't come back, might take a while though!