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Hello The Code 7 lead would indeed be fine in one piece at that length. As stated above you would only need steps when using a lighter code lead and thus reducing its maximum length. So no steps or joins required. Agree with the 150mm width for the outlet end, with the tiles or slates...

The rain is getting in because: a) a load of broken tiles b) the felt underlay which can be a secondary defence, doesn't drain into the valley or gutters as its torn and hanging down. It's a very shoddy job, which will be difficult to put entirely right without completely re-doing it...

Don't do it!!

If the house was built in 1931 it is most likely to still be roofed with natural slate rather than man made slates that may contain asbestos. So it sounds to me like its a natural slate roof at the end of its life, time to get some quotes in - See the NFRC website for competent slate roofing...

Sorry to sound brutalist, but you need to rip that roof off, and put a proper one on. You'll be botching for evermore otherwise, like the previous owner was by the looks of things. It has a water trap all the way round the perimeter and its flat! so the joints in the sheets that are designed...

The best job, by far, would be to do it in lead. 1 piece of Code 7 lead will be fine for 2.6lm, 1:80 fall. Maybe the more expensive option, but if done properly you will never need to think about it again. It's the correct material for this detail. Your leadworker should be able to advise...

Using an underlay that helps prevent condensation forming on the underside of the lead such as building paper or geotextile fleece will prolong the life of the lead, and is no more expensive or difficult to do. To use a breather felt that is specifically designed to allow moisture up through...

Its ok for condensation to form on the underside of any roof covering as long as it has the freedom to drain or evaporate freely and quickly. Any moisture sandwiched between the breather felt and the lead will not escape freely, and it will very likely occur. Moisture will be far less...

Hello To strip the existing slate and replace with tiles (Im assuming single lap concrete tiles) as you're suggesting the price is likely to be somewhere between £50 - £60 per m2. To reslate in 'good' quality Spanish slate around £70 -£80 per m2 To replace with new Welsh slate around £85-£100...

Nothing wrong with chalk slurry used in the right scenario, this isn't one of them. Chalk slurry would be used to help prevent moisture corroding the lead were it has been difficult to be rid of the moisture within the build, such as on or above an old stone wall. There is no need to have...

Hello, Most breather felts do not 'seal' around the nail as with traditional bituminous felts and consequently can be prone to letting water in under heavy prolonged rainfall, until the roof is slated/tiled. However there are a couple of breather felts on the market that do seal around the...

Any felt MUST lap over the lead at the valley. Do not allow breather felt to sit under the lead. This will allow any condensation coming up through the felt to become trapped under the lead and cause it to corrode prematurely. Run a batten up the side of the valley(parallel with the centre...

Breather felts are supposed to be taped at all laps. Most manufacturers sell this tape which is usually a double backed sticky tape that is run between the laps during installation. However it is rarely done in practice as its expensive and fiddly and it doesn't usually cause a problem not...

Please stop, some manufacturers spend millions of pounds and many years trying to perfect this type of thing, and the 'slates' still fail.

The NFRC is a very good association for both the member and householders, they do vet all new potential members and deal with all complaints either on behalf of the roofer or on behalf of roofers customer. Any member that does not deal with a complaint in a stisfactory way will be expelled...

Dave £600 does seem a little steep per chimney, but I'm guessing they must have included for either a tower scaffold at eaves level or a chimney scaffold which 'cradles' the ridge, in which case I don't think it too unreasonable. It would be a legal requirement to use a scaffold in this...

Hello Replacing hip and ridge tiles can only be done safely with scaffold at eaves level as well as using crawling boards to gain access up the roof from the scaffold, this would be the minimum legal requirement for this type of work. If you allow the roofer to do this work without...

Hello Zooming in on your very last picture, it does look like the bottom section of the lead in the valley has been previously patched, to no avail by the looks of things. Definitely time for new lead in the valley /s, and to fix the slipping slates whilst they're at it before they land on...

Hello Firstly, if the concrete tiles are from 1958 then they have done remarkably well to last over 50 years! So it is highly likely they need replacing. £2,500 ? that sounds incredibly cheap. I would worry that your roofer has not included for any scaffold? A proper scaffold can be as...

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