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Argh... Silicon won't stick. Used general purpose silicone. Then used low modulus neutral cure which stuck better but still not good enough. Now spread gorilla wood glue on edges and will stick HVAC foil to it where it touches the walls. As for silicon around the sink not sure what to do to...

Ah will see if I can find it in a local store. When you say clear silicon around the edge do you mean a bead to cover the gap or it spread across the whole edge with a credit card type tool? Does silicon need to be on the sink cutout edges as well? Cheers.

Ah alright. So is this the ideal osmo oil: https://www.screwfix.com/p/osmo-polyx-hardwax-oil-clear-satin-matt-750ml/1099p Colour is clear satin-matt? Is this the one to buy? I ask because on another site they have satin and matt as separate. I like the effect of the Danish oil and don't want...

Hi, I did wooden worktops in my kitchen and am using them without them being secured just yet. Just to make sure I don't miss any needed adjustments before securing: 1. Do I need expansion gaps? I scribed them to the walls and really don't wanna be cutting expansion gaps. 2. With the worktop...

Yeah I got the square ducting. Bought this hood instead: http://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Flat-Glass-Designer-Cooker-Hood/p/112775 Found out the original one with the bulkiness and blower at the top was no use for ducting off to the side. Anyone ever cut the chimney on these to duct to the...

Instructions say: "When installing the appliance, make sure that the following distances between the top of cooker or hob and the lowest part of the cooker hood must be observed: Gas hobs: 750mm Electric hobs: 650mm" So I guess by this they mean minimum distances so 800mm should be fine for...

Cool, do you know if I can use these types of pipes to vent the air: http://www.screwfix.com/p/manrose-rectangular-flat-channel-white-110mm/14118 http://www.screwfix.com/p/manrose-round-pipe-to-rectangular-channel-connector-white-120mm/72110...

Ah, so is there anything in particular bad about this hood or are all the same (useless on recirculate/exhaust at the top)? Might go get a duct right now as there is easy access to the vent I just didn't want to drill through my new wall units. BTW are all hoods noisy at even low speed settings?

Hi guys. Need to install cooker hood. Here it is: Not the final door BTW - just using old kitchen bits to check how door opens (it's pretty stiff actually). When I placed it against the wall it doesn't stick out far enough to match with the cabinets to either side. Of course the wall...

Solid pine. I sanded the table top down but not sure if 100% as the battery ran out. You think the light parts are where the varnish wasn't sanded off completely? What about sandpaper grit? I read somewhere steel wooling is good before staining (cuts the flappy wood parts left from sanding) but...

Newbie to wood colouring. Mum bought table - wrong colour: light pine wood. Need to stain to look more like walnut or another darker wood. Sanded - Stained 3 coats (by this time it looked really bad) - painted with 3-in-1 stain/varnish to fix it. After stain 3 coats: After 1 coat 3-in-1...

Even worse - chipboard. No rails either like IKEA. That's why I attached wood to the walls at the bottom behind the cabs... just trying to figure out the best way to fasten the cabs to the wood. The walls are no-fines concrete. Electric socket is not as deep as it looks, just tested and cables...

Good point JohnD about securing to other cabinets but one cabinet at the end is a loner with only another side wall to secure to (either L-brackets like shown or screws to the side wall). Not sure what you mean, all the cabinets sit flat against the wall at the bottoms. They only show gaps at...

Hammer wooden dowel into hole, screws into wooden dowel. Throw the plastic wall plugs away.

Wall units are only hooked on the top which causes movement at the bottom. Was thinking of fastening them with L-brackets at bottom like this: Is there any better way of doing it before I go and drill into them? I have already screwed wood to the wall exactly where the L-brackets will go...

Yeah I did that the first time but apparently it looked a bit odd so I did it like this the second time. I will be rounding it off only slightly. Yeah tiling but the white piece of chipboard has already been cut to match the wall so the gap you see is the result rather than the before.

If it fails the test I have tricks up my sleeve (y) Definitely not worth over-complicating something like this with fiberglass or EPDM.

1. All walls uneven/wavy. 2. Scribe the wooden worktop vs cutting into the wall? Also does it look right having an overhang at the side like this: That's not the worktop by the way just using scrap from old kitchen to make templates. Thanks.

Job done:

When I built my veranda a few months back I had the problem of a curved wall rather than a warped baton so slit the baton in 1m segments about 70% depth to allow it to curve with the wall (you can slit your warped baton to "unwarp" it against your straight wall): And I decided to use twin...