Any Better Way to Fasten Bottom of Wall Units Before I Ruin Them?

[ILikeDIYS]

Wall units are only hooked on the top which causes movement at the bottom. Was thinking of fastening them with L-brackets at bottom like this:

Is there any better way of doing it before I go and drill into them? I have already screwed wood to the wall exactly where the L-brackets will go, so they will be screwing into the wood rather than the actual wall.

Thanks.

 

[JohnD]

Wall units are only hooked on the top which causes movement at the bottom.

I can only see one unit in your pic. By the time you have a few, screwed to each other and loaded up with heavy stuff, they won't move.

I see your cabs are self-assembly with cam fasteners, so might not be as rigid as factory built. If they have wooden dowels, you can put wood glue into the dowel holes before assembly. You can lightly glue all mating edges and the shelves for a bit more stiffness. I doubt you will ever need to take them apart until the day they are ready for the skip.

Some people like to fix a batten to the wall, for the cabs to sit on. I suppose it helps get them level. You would adjust the wall hangers so the cabs sink down to touch the battens. It would take a bit of the weight.

 

[foxhole]

Fixed correctly the cupds should not stand off the wall at the base, you may have over tightened the top .

 

[Nige F]

As foxhole says particularly if the wall is bowed out / not true.

 

[bernardgreen]

I would never trust a wall cabinet made from MDF and hung from the top. A rail along the wall to support the bottom of the cabinet(s) and the fixings at the top use to stop the cabinet(s) falling forward. A fixing from inside the cabinet to the top of the rail will prevent the cabinet from moving forward and off the rail when some one drags a heavy item oout of the cabinet.

Those electric sockets need to be more accessible. The cable from plugs will be bent too tightly.
If ( when ) the sockets have to be maintained / replaced the electrician will need more space or the cabinet should be made easy to remove. Resting on a rail makes removal easy

 

[ILikeDIYS]

Good point JohnD about securing to other cabinets but one cabinet at the end is a loner with only another side wall to secure to (either L-brackets like shown or screws to the side wall).

Fixed correctly the cupds should not stand off the wall at the base, you may have over tightened the top .

Not sure what you mean, all the cabinets sit flat against the wall at the bottoms. They only show gaps at the sides because the walls aren't plumb (inward vertical bowed so it can be filled with silicone etc...).

 

[JohnD]

hung from the top

the common adjustable hangers are fixed to the sides, with screws in shear, although they are normally positioned in contact with the top

 

[ILikeDIYS]

I would never trust a wall cabinet made from MDF and hung from the top. A rail along the wall to support the bottom of the cabinet(s) and the fixings at the top use to stop the cabinet(s) falling forward. A fixing from inside the cabinet to the top of the rail will prevent the cabinet from moving forward and off the rail when some one drags a heavy item oout of the cabinet.

Those electric sockets need to be more accessible. The cable from plugs will be bent too tightly.
If ( when ) the sockets have to be maintained / replaced the electrician will need more space or the cabinet should be made easy to remove. Resting on a rail makes removal easy

Even worse - chipboard. No rails either like IKEA. That's why I attached wood to the walls at the bottom behind the cabs... just trying to figure out the best way to fasten the cabs to the wood. The walls are no-fines concrete.

Electric socket is not as deep as it looks, just tested and cables from plugs do not hit the back of the unit when plugged in. Sockets are only there for potential wireless switched under cabinet lighting and hole is big enough to remove them just about.

 

[foxhole]

I

Good point JohnD about securing to other cabinets but one cabinet at the end is a loner with only another side wall to secure to (either L-brackets like shown or screws to the side wall).



Not sure what you mean, all the cabinets sit flat against the wall at the bottoms. They only show gaps at the sides because the walls aren't plumb (inward vertical bowed so it can be filled with silicone etc...).

If they sit tight to wall then no reason to secure at base.

 

[Bosswhite]

Fix Stretcher plate to bottom of cabinet, chased into the plaster and filled, gives added support to cabinet.

 

[lostinthelight]

If your going to tile the splashback, take them right to the underside of the cupboards which will support them??
litl