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There is a similar type of trim which clips into a screwed down base and covers the base. It is available in several colours, and there are end caps and corner mouldings to finish the job. I think I got mine some years ago from Focus but I think they have gone bust. You could try Homebase or...

I am somewhat surprised that you say you have a DPC in a building from the early 1800's. Could be a later bodge. Your floor has rotted either because the ground level outside has been raised or any air bricks or vents are blocked. Houses of that age depended on ample air movement under the floor...

If the electrical work was just extending existing sockets and lighting circuits then it was unlikely to be notifiable for building control. Perhaps one of the sparkies will correct this if I am wrong.

Water Authority will not be happy with pouring that down the drains!

In DM today http://www.dailymail.co.uk/travel/travel_news/article-2722828/Hotel-threatens-1-400-fines-rowdy-Brits-caught-pooing-swimming-pools-disgusting-new-logging-craze-exposes-guests-harmful-bacteria.html

I am getting confused here. Has your house got lower floor levels at the back? The sloping ground is irrelevant if the new toilet is at the same floor level with the existing, it will fall to the manhole.

If you can get to the back of the wall, you can bolt through the wall (with a mudguard washer under the nut) and plaster over the nuts at the back. Paint the nuts with undercoat before plastering to stop rust showing through, or use stainless steel bolts.

Possibly a macerator?

You need 4 "T" keys of suitable size, these enter the hole and turn 90 degrees. Depending on how long they have been there you may have trouble lifting them, sometimes a tap all round with a hammer will loosen them but if not you may need to hire a lifter.

The cost of all that glass would be prohibitive. It will have to be minimum double glazed units Fensa approved to comply with building regs, and with the cost of structural engineer to design the steelwork, the cost of the steelwork and labour to carry out all the work you would be lucky to come...

If you are thinking of getting a suitable DC extension be aware that there are several different types of plug, some with different pin diameters and some with different shield sizes. All in there are probably at least 2 dozen different types.

I would certainly try to save the surround (It looks like it may be timber painted black, if so it could be stripped back and repainted). As for the opening, the shaped fire back can be removed and the rubble behind cleared back to the builders opening. The grooved lintel above the fire is the...

Components in a charger can go faulty without stopping working, but the most likely event is resistors changing value because of heating and cooling, and a resistor of lower value than specified (or even short circuit) will affect the constant voltage for a SLA battery or the constant current...

If you prefer black conduit is available in black, only problem is that it marks easily when threading as it is painted black.

For iron pipe, all electrical factors will stock galvanised conduit in various sizes and all the fittings. You will need a pipe vice and stock & dies for cutting and threading (you may be able to hire these or a industrial electrician may cut and thread for you for a reasonable fee). For timber...

As Ree suggested, slacken the bolts and slip a piece of DPC behind the plate, cut slots for the bolts in the PCB so that it slides all the way down. The slots will make little difference but if you are concerned pour some liquid DPC down the wall. If its not an excessive amount of work you could...

If the manhole starts at your proposed property and then continues on then it is your property not the water authorities. Only if it carries more than one property does it become a sewer rather than a private drain.

The OP has indicated that he would run another switch wire for the other light.

I can't help on the PD (best ask in "building regs and planning section") issue but on a 1930's semi you would have had an outside toilet and coal house. Often the coal house will have been used as a boiler room by now.

It is perfectly simple. You are assuming wrongly that blue is neutral, when in fact you have a 3 core cable - red = line in; yellow = first switched live; blue is second switched live. To make it safe the earth should extend thro' the wall to second switch. To add a light with a two gang switch...