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it’s part of some general works. So it’ll be whatever the heating engineer recommends. I’d prefer the whole run, but I’m not going to do it or pay extra if the run involves more impact than the room being redone now

Bit of pipe next to the just removed chimney now sticks out like a sore thumb. Is it likely to be gas? Can the pipe be legally capped under a floorboard if it is?

looking at the trap end it’s 1.5inch bsp. I can get a blanking cap for £2. Save me a tenner

Which would be..?

I only need the machine hose connection

I’m plumbing in a washing machine and I have a single appliance u bend spare. I thought I’d use that. But how do I blank off the sink end as I only want to attach to the hose output?

From the ground I can see my parapet walls have felt over the top. Is that usual practice? It’s almost impossible to see from the ground but it’s sitting on top of the bricks My guess is someone did that rather replace/ correct the slates and DPM or add flashings, but I’d like some more...

the stud wall is 100mm with insulation inside. - sliding door plus attachments is 50mm Yes, I could remove the insulation and have a pocket door. If I wanted insulation and a pocket I’m now at 200mm.

I looked at a pocket door. I actually think it takes up more room and has less insulation that a standard sliding door for me as I’m building the whole thing from scratch. The fire rated protection is handy tho

I can imagine theyre draughty. The main garage canopy door is insulated but is very poor in terms of draughts. You think they take up more space than a hinged door?

The sliding door is internal to the garage and the garage has a separate entrance / not directly connected to the house. I’m trying to maximise the passage space and minimise drafts. E.g. 800mm gap with 19mm stops either side and a sliding door maybe with draft exclusion.

I’m building a dividing stud wall in my garage and I’m going to be installing a sliding door so I can maximise storage space in both areas and I’m having an 838 wide door. I don’t think I need a door frame or stops or any of that so I think I can just build the wall with a rough 838 space or...

Door going into my garage is 1900 (roughly) it even has glazing! I want to replace it and add a solid door inside. Both need to be around 1900. Any ideas where I can purchase a door that is this length or trimmable by that much? I don’t want the expense of a custom door or hiring a carpenter

The block work is an external wall, I thought you needed an air gap to allow for moisture evaporation? I’m going to get a lifter for the ceiling boards. No chance of paying only £50 hire though. Do the walls need to be fireboard or is the wood top plate sufficient to give 30 minutes

So if I build out the stud wall leaving an air gap as below and board the ceiling, what’s the fire protection for behind the stud wall, particularly to protect above the garage?

I am building up some stud walls inside a block work garage and I’m replacing the ceiling. I have 100mm insulation and fire retardant board for the ceiling. If I install the top plate for the stud walls first I’ll be left with an inch in the top corner behind the studs which won’t be fire...

For those paying attention… I took delivery of the fireboards today and I just shifted them off the driveway to my garage. I’ve decided I’ll be needing a hoist :)

If I clean it up and there is a teeny weeny leak, what’s the best way to pick that up? But if tissue wrap? I’m burying it all again in a weekend or two

I’m replacing a ceiling and I’ve uncovered some pipe work. There’s been no issues with the plumbing and no leaks, but they look pretty appalling. Maybe it’s just old flux, but having seen them, should I DO anything?

I was asked this morning why we can’t have underfloor heating.