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there a black motor onto of brass diverter valve at bottom left of boiler. there a little retaining clip that secures the motor down. sometimes they become loose thru vibration. if motor doesn't move valve down the heat used for dhw just circulate round heating giving symptoms u describe

sounds good to me

i agree its more likely to be the cartridge in the shower.

because maybe the diverter valve could be stuck in the hot water position. sludged up maybe, scale.

the diverter valve should be spring loaded, you can take the actuator head off and check the pin on the valve isnt stuck down. the actuator pushes the pin in to deliver DHW, then the spring should push pin out again to deliver CH.

more constant if cracked, like a hair line crack. i think baxi came up with a part that supposed to stop it because it happens so much. you should try there technical help desk, if that is the problem they may sort it for you. the number should be in your manual or go on there web site.

these boilers sometimes have problems with the ignition not sparking on burner but earthing on the combustion chamber. can have a crack on the ceramic part of ignition electrode.

it has a valve head actuator on the diverter valve held in by a forked clip which can become loose, if valve isnt in proper position it can result in a reduced feed to heater or hot water. the inner flue has a stat attached to it just before flue leaves boiler.

i have baxi combi 80e

i got same boiler and having same problem with mine yesterday. managed to get it going again this morning, by checking the power leads to the air pressure switch and the small trip stat on the flue outlet. also the clip that holds the motor on the diverter valve of slides through boiler...

the wiring needs looking at. l would not use it until you get it checked by an electrician. it could start a fire

you could have damaged the ignition leads, so it just earths on the cover when its on. usually 1 bar when cold then upto 2 bar when hot

does the fan operate when it does not light and the green CH light stay on with no fault lights?

you cant beat the baxi promax. easiest to install. not expensive, reliable, and still uses a bigger heat exchanger so no need to run any more cables for a pump overrun, yet you still get the sedbuk A efficiency

connection 1 on boiler should be the flow, if it is then the pump is the wrong way round. connection 3 on boiler is sometimes a cold feed, by your photo looks to have a cold feed also (point c). if it is the cold feed then it should be between the vent and pump

i have found alot of engineers are undersizing the gas pipe to these boilers. gas rating it would find out. not enough gas to it will lower the KW

i would not use him again. i work for british gas, and i dont think you can go wrong with our service. it may cost more but at least you know your getting experts who can keep your appliance working and safe.

if your fitting a combi it will have a pressure gauge on it anyway. and an open vented system is a will hardly exsert any pressure on joints

I like to use fernox, or salamander. I find worcester are most reliable but they are owed by a german company now. and the most expensive. there junior ranges are good or the britishgas 532 is an awesume boiler Glowworm make vaillants now and are assemble in belper derbyshire. i like the...

i think it will solve it.