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A good quality strap wrench should sufice from rothenberger or ridgid. What is the pipework being used for that you can't leave a mark on it cos a normal stillson/ pipe wrench would be the obvious answer.

This is what I paid last October and covers the whole system for a year through Domestic and general.

My suprima is also 5 years old and judging by the the symptoms you've got my gas valve went, then 6 months down the line the PCB went. Get potterton heateam out, for £220 for a years cover on you system instead of some fly by night plumber. Best £220 I've paid BTW.

If it's not firering up after reset it could be the gas valve.

Grit in the tank is probably scale(hard water area?) give the system a blast with mains water.

Hey never thought of that one, great little tip.

If you've just got standard pillar type taps in the kitchen it's just a case of connecting the hot and cold with a short length of hose and tap connectors then opening the hot and cold taps together to force the cold water through the hot system. Go up stairs making sure someone watches over...

Call potterton heateam out and they will fix the problem for £220 and it also gives you a years cover on the system. New PCB board costs £184 without fitting which they will probably replace anyway.So the £220 is well spent and they will have you up and running that day.

Yes

Sounds like a knackered gas valve to me, same thing happened to mine.

Gaz, mines started doing this too in the last few weeks so you may be coming back again.Mind you I think I've got my £200 worth.

Quite expensive for the cage though

If its not firing up after reset it sounds like a knackered gas valve and is not as expensive as a PCB.

I would treat with a sludge remover first for a week then drain all the system down then flush out with fresh water and finally treat with an inhibitor such as fernox or sentinal in the F&E.

A 14" pipe wrench made by either ridgid or record are invaluable for using on rounded off bolts or even pipes :wink: Have to agree about C.K screwdrivers, had mine 18 years now and they still do the business.

You only need PTFE on the thread that screws into rad. The union thread, main valve thread that connects valve to rad as you say only needs a smear of pipe jointing compound (boss white) on union face. The thread that sits over the olive needs no PTFE at all. If you can get boss white and...

That will drag air in and not pump air out although you may shift the air lock.

SORRY wont bother again

I wouldn't hurt to just check around the cold feed where it joins the system with a magnet to be absolutly sure there is no blockage.

How long do you hold the gas button down for? needs to be kept pressed in for at least 30/40 seconds to allow the thermocouple to warm up.