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He hasnt primed the surfaces and also there isnt full adhesive bed under the tiles. Tell him you feel its his fault due to poor surface prep,it doesnt take long to prime a few walls.

It depends on your tiles,if they are ceramic the stone disc may do it,if they are porcelain then it would need to be a diamond one.Usually about £10 or so.

Are you sure the green boards were cement as they are usually grey in colour. Green would lead me to belive it is moisture resistant plasterboard

You generally get ajustment in a shower door,there are some that will fit 760mm with 20mm ajustment either way so this should fit. It depends on the curve of your base.

Youve lost a 100mm,how thick are the tiles??With normal tile you would lose 15mm each side max.Did you over board before tiling??

Hi Lee, Remove the cubicle Mask the edges of the tray and cover the tray in a dust sheet or similar. Tank the walls up to about a meter and down to tray (below edge if poss) Silicone the joint between tray and wall,this should be ok I normally tank to floor but its no essential. Tile...

use the acrylic primer

From what you are describing you have fitted the cubicle and now want to tile? It should be tank the area first then tray then tile,cubicle last.

Only read through this post quite quickly but re taking the bath out,no one has mentioned the "L" brackets that usually come with an acrylic bath which would normally be fitted up under the tiles. Also its fairly standard practice IMO to also silicone a bath in BEFORE tiling and then again when...

Hi, My porch roof has been leaking for ages and with the cold winters the faces have come off some of the bricks.I m going to sort the roof out but also want to render the brickwork,what sort of prep is required with regards to coating it with something before rending? Thanks

Thanks Gasman! :D

Fitted a towel rail today in place of an existing rad,froze pipes about 150mm back from existing valves fitted towel rail and new valves. Opened valves and bled through but water was hot. The hot water had been on for about three hours on timer but c/h off Its a system boiler.Any ideass what...

:D

If your worried about height use backer boards min is 6mm 3mm ply wont do anything.You can bed up with powdered adhesive up to about 10mm.A floor needs to be flat rather than level.Being out a few mm over a few meters is nothing to worry about.

It depends where you are in the uk,doorways etc,floor condition. As a rough guide,personsally for 26sqm you would be looking at £730 that includes adhesive and grout.

Well done sir! I hope you are rewarding yourself with an alcoholic beverage or two!

Porcelain generally needs diamond bits,you can go through with masonary bits but so slow and have some water handy to dip the bit in as it will get hot. I've melted no end of bits over the years.

If the mould has started to go black then it will stain the silicone so best to cut out and reseal.

Unfortunately I think the best way would be to remove and st art again,depending on tile/worktop gap a 5mm bead should be sufficient

Tub adhesive relies in evaporation to dry where as powdered or cement based drys through chemical reaction. Cement based will generally be stronger,both tub and cement based are good in their specific applications.