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Don't leave it,get the tiler to change it. Is easy enough,just a matter of removing all the grout around it first then hit the hollow spot with a small bolster and hammer wearing eye protection of course.Once broken lever the pieces out and clean the area then relay.

You can get wet saw blades especially for glass,they have finer diamonds on them and give a much cleaner cut with less breakout.Also use a manual glass cutter dipped in oil,only score once. It can be a bit hit and miss with thicker tiles.

How did you seal the door,inside,outside. Shower doors are sealed outside only this allows any water to run back into the tray.

£30 per sqm labour only.........seems a bit high for a tiler with little experience.

Rub it over with fine grade/inbetween coats paper to give a key then go over with the satin.

OK Richard,I suppose as long as the op gets the best info thats all that matters really :D

:? Richard isnt that excatly what I proposed two post earlier?

What about dpm then 50mm sq battens fixed through into concrete to form joists,insulate between with 50mm kingspan or similar then overboard with 18mm ply fixed at 300mm centers. This should be solid enough to tile over.

A floor needs to flat rather than level.If a room runs out of level by 25mm over the length and was levelled you could be running 25mm up the wall or if doors at opposing ends then creating a step. Powdered adhesive can be used to bed up in places.

Only just breezed over this thread but not seen a mention of if the adhesive came off the wall or off the tile. I like multifix for the reason metioned earlier that it is self priming. I trowl the wall but also back butter the tiles with a thin skim of adhesive. I wouldnt have though a little...

What have you boxed in with-ply,plasterbrd,aquapanel? I normally use multifix and flexi grout on tile joints.On the tile and bath join and wall+box join use silicone.

Askat your local tile store,they might be able to recommend someone and always get at least three quotes.Also ask if they have any past customers that can recommend their work.

I use this http://www.tilechoice.co.uk/proddetail.php?prod=800530 and this http://www.tilechoice.co.uk/proddetail.php?prod=800565&cat=24 both made but granfix,if you set up a trade account they are cheaper.Been using it for about three years now.

I use this Always get an excellent finish,no soapy water or sticky fingers.Put the bead in then finish with the tool.only one run at a time,have a roll of kitchen towel handy not to clean the tool but to contain my excitement at quality finish. :lol:

How uneven is it? Most powdered adhesives can be used to a thickness of up to 10mm, with some patience you can level it out whilst tiling.

I would give it a try,rake out the grout where you want to cut then go round with a jig saw,watch out for any services under floor though.

I added a couple of rads to our heating system in jan,ran 15mm off 22mm flow and returns to feed 2 small rads one in wc and one in bathroom. There has been a bit more system noise than before since they were added.Over the last couple of weeks the boiler has on occassion been giving out a...

Thats backing coat underneath.If the skim is coming off like that it would normally mean the wall needs stripping back to the brickwork and reboarding. If you want a temp fix then give it a coat of acrylic primer on the affected areas then try some patching plaster,I wouldn't imagine it would...

The backing plaster that you say came off with the tiles sounds like skim coat and the sandstone your refering to is most likely the backing coat/render. What age is the property? When the backing coat crumbles off can you see brickwork behind?

To tile onto wood he should have used powdered flexi adhesive. There are some tubbed adhesives that will work but imo powdered is better. You could use pva to prime as its a cloak room there's not such an issue with moisture but acrylic primer is always my choice.