Search results

Thanks. I think i will do 1 and 5. Move the socket up a bit, align it with the 2g back box. Clip direct upto where i stopped chasing, continue upwards in conduit. Thanks for your help!

I just cant decided on the neatest solution. so do i: Move the white socket up a few inches and line it up with the dual gang socket? move the dual gang socket right a few inches to align with the socket above but then adjust the plastic waste pipe (not difficult to move right) Move the dual...

Nah they were stuck on quite well. Plaster is weaker than the tile glue stuff though. My tool of choice is a mac oscillating cutter which meant i could cut clean through the grouting and then cut down the back of the tile until i ran out of depth. After that a pallette knife and a hammer took...

So I'm chasing out for a rewire. Reusing existing fittings where feasible, but cannot decide about this one. New chase down to work surface done. Note the old cable going off diagonally at 7 o clock.... White socket bottom left i have reinstated as I found the ring main there hidden...

I rotated one of the joints such that the pipe to the trv was much closer to vertical. Some of the 90 degree pieces weren't 90 by the time the solder had cooled. Yeah still need to lag the pipe. Thought id do that after I had finished with the blow torch, but I suspect you are right that it is...

It wasnt great before i tried to heat it out before giving up and then cutting it out to the finally heat and separate to see what it looked like. Reassuringly, the side I thought was ok was. And the side that wasnt, wasn't!

Yes i agree. I tried the joint again with a new fitting, new pipe on the RHS and made the final connection elsewhere to close the loop. Took much less heat to flow the solder this time. Used wire wool which left a lovely clean surface, much better than the emery cloth I'd been using before...

Dissection complete. Conclusion: rubbish joint!

Rightly or wrongly, all of the other drain cocks are orientated downwards in the rest of the house and they open / close just fine. What is the issue if it points downwards?

Ok less heat. I shall work on that. I put the drain cock on the same side as the one that was removed. ( removed a radiator on the other side of the wall)

Yes i agree. I stopped on Monday evening for that reason and attempted yesterday after work and im still not convinced!

This is the kit that i bought: Solder, flux & "sand cloth" https://www.screwfix.com/p/bernzomatic-lead-free-wire-solder-soluble-flux/27758?_requestid=286662 I shall go out and get some wire wool. Any ideas why the final joint(s) are causing the most difficulty? Steam? Speed of heating? More...

If the wiring is from 1965, it may be worthwhile looking for evidence of green residue on the cable ends, in the back boxes, or on the back of the fittings. PVC Cables from 1960-1970 ish had an issue where the plasticzer leaks out of the cable making it brittle. I certainly found exactly this...

Yes the innards were removed before solderimg the drain cock. I learnt about that one when trying to work out the difference between type a and type b drain cocks when trying to buy the corrrect one.

Flux has been used on the fitting and the pipe on each joint. I have been using emery paper to prepare the joints. I agree the problem joints do look like they got too warm, but any cooler and the solder wouldn't melt on the copper.

I am new to soldering with a blow torch (I'm much better with small electronics) , and have been replumbing a radiator. Everything was going fine until it came to joining the new pipework to the old. I thought that a bit of moisture in the pipes may be the issue, so ive blown out as much water...

I am planning on removing a radiator in the living room and moving the pipes to a second radiator in the hallway. System is an old boiler, immersion tank and cold header tank. Current piping is 15mm copper. I was planning on chasing in the new pipes from under the floor boards on 1st floor to...

In my situation live and earth came from a light switch further up the wall, the wires ran under the floor to a 13a socket wire powering some led lights. The neutral from the 13a socket didnt have a neutral available in the light switch so instead someone wired it to the nearest available...

Does the neutral return to the lighting circuit? I recently had exactly this, but in my case the neutral was borrowed from the socket ring!

And yes 3 core and earth to each light switch is already on my list!