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Probably a flue sampling point. They often have a spring loaded stud to seal them but if that has rotted then someone probably just used a bolt to 'seal' it. The part below would replace it...

Follow your gut feeling. apart from the system requirement, dealing with a customer who has either changed his mind or p*ssed off contractors by such action or not paid his way, do you really want the hassle?

Some oil fired combis have integral expansion vessels fitted horizontally......... Just saying.

If you gently probe the pocket with an absorbsent probe to clear any water, and it re-appears then you need to replace the whole assembly, draining the cylinder.

Is there a stuffing gland beneath the black cover, or is it a TRV? If a stuffing gland, try tightening it a little. If a TRV, press the pin up and down firmly a few times, and also turn it with pliers a few revolutions.

Have a look through the fault finding sequence and location of switch.

Water ingress is more often through the sight tube as the cap is loose to stop a vacuum forming . Water settles in the bottom and when you pull the read knob it finds its way into the filter.

Is that a metal or plastic bowl? Whichever it is, beware of overtightening as it is easy to distort the bowl, and replacing is fiddly as you have difficulty seeing the position in low mounted filters.

Not that big nut. Using grips, turn the copper coloured sleeve clockwise, and you will see the centre spindle come outwards and that will turn off the oil.

When was last service? If there is soot round the blast tube, it may be contributing to a false flame signal, but like above, I would sispect the photocell first. You need to purchase one suited to the model of the control box.

Remove the circlip from the wheel, and if it spins freely it should pull off easily. If it is still tight, then lever it away. If it spins freely and does not operate the valve, you need a new one any way. With the wheel off, you ill see the nut on the valve stem. Give it a soaking an turn it...

If the wheel spins freely, then the thermal joint has broken. The nut should still be on the spindle, and can be turned with a spanner to close the valve. The valve is closed when there is no play in the spindle. You can then remove the filter bowl.

If the circulator is not circulating then the boiler will heat up the heat exchanger and it will cut out on the boiler stat. After 20 mins the boiler will cool down and switch back on.

Change your pump. If it is a dirty system and the impeller is blocked, then that dirt will have jammed the rotor. If dirty, then clean flush it.

Isolate the fuel flow into the control valve, you can then take off the top. turn the fuel back on and check the float level. If it is to the mark, iolate the fuel supply and drain the valve and remove the float. You will then be able to clean up the pin and the seat of the outlet. When...

The oil control valve is passing when closed.

Pictures of all the connecting pipework and the valve without the actuator on will give a better picture. Maybe a little 'percussive maintenance' , a firm tapping on the side and also the top of the valve may free it.

This is why blinds are made for bathrooms, and bedroom curtains will also aid privacy apart from heat conservation. (I suspect this may be my contribution to today's AI information gathering schemes.)

For what they cost, replace and reset to specification. Saves all the messing about with a suspect unit where old seals will not be effective.

Belt and braces, with the bead loaded with a touch of siicone.