Search results

Yeah that's the kind I tried. Wasn't impressed with the rate of failure on the plumb vials. I also find the vials kind of annoying to read. Sola levels are probably the best I've ever tried in that regard.

Which Stabilas? I tried a couple of the plain cheaper yellow 70-2 and was dismayed to find only one plumb vial was accurate out of 4. Kind of soured me on the whole Stabilas being the best thing. A 180cm Tough Master I got for cheap on eBay that was intended to be used as a chunky straight edge...

Well, Milwaukee sell one that's accurate down to 0.03deg, which is equal to Stabilas 0.5mm standard bubbles. Can't get much better than that, it's just expensive.

Laser levels are amazing for setting things out over a distance or for things like packing out an entire old wall. I use the bubble level to confirm after to dial in the level exactly.

Thanks, Woody. I did see the reviews mentioning the display angle, but considered it likely not a problem as I'm intending to use it mostly for plumb measurements for now; where with standard levels you're slapping your face against the wall to get a solid read on them anyway. Not sure if the...

I believe the sensitivity of those levels is 0.1 to 0.2deg (or 0.05 at 90 and 0 degrees), so I guess that makes sense. To be honest I've always had that issue with regular stabila levels! You slap the thing on and check the bubble and it seems very very slightly off. You do nothing, slap it...

Thanks. Have you found it good and reliable since then? Was considering this or an IMEX, but dont know much about that brand tbh. Assuming Bosch is solid.

Older thread but what size of bosch level did you get? I'm looking at digital levels and was considering the bosch. I was looking at stabila but heard the calibration for that one needs to be done via the spirit bubble which seems naff compared to just pressing a button and rotating the thing a...

Generally you can use butyl tape which self seals around the screw and is your best bet at keeping things actually sealed. However, the whole idea of insulating internally is a compromise. All your vapour barriers and so on will fail over time (micro holes in the plastic, tears when renovating...

Except the parts where there are voids due to uneven studs, so you're filling the gaps to keep the boards firm.

On timber studs? I did ask Knauf about using their adhesive for doing this, but they firmly recommended against it, presumably because the movement of the studs will crack it off the timber, and then it is only being held by paper.

Very comprehensive reply, and will definitely be useful for the future when I can get this kind of stuff set up beforehand. I was using the broadfix plastic shims (the rectangular kind), so basically like glazing packers, yeah. Thickest individual packer was 5mm I think but I used a range of...

So you definitely rate the foam over any kind of hard setting powder then?

You're saying the foam adds structural integrity to the areas with voids? I've been debating using some kind of powdered tile adhesive that sets hard (but it may shrink when curing or crack/become brittle with time) or foam, but figured foam wouldn't actually offer support against compression if...

Just one more quick question. I've been trying to glue the packers with a spare tube of stixall I've had and while they do adhere, the stixall doesn't seem to glue to the plastic very well, so they're easy to dislodge. Could leave it that way but worried screwing the boards in may dislodge them...

Actually, I do have some spare tubs of tile adhesive. The Americans seem to love 'wet shimming' with thinset. Maybe that'll work well to fill the gaps?

Mostly because I'm a perfectionist, is all. The worst voids are only around 3mm deep, as the hardboard I've stacked up is 4mm thick per strip. I imagine filling those wouldn't have used too much gripfill.

If you're gunning gripfill in later on, why wouldn't I be able to just bead some down the voids before installing plasterboard? Is it too viscous and may not be pushed aside like the foam to fill the void when screwing on? Does it go off too quickly? If the latter, wouldn't the much longer...

The other side is a finished wall (with laths) so can't be touched, so I'm just focusing on the current problem. I'm also a bit too OCD for the whole 'old house thing.' If I'm in a position where I can fix something up I may as well. And yes, the question is about the gaps. Which is why I'm...

Hey all, Working on a wall where the studs are old and just a mess. Aside from being twisted (which I planed flat as best I could), they're also not plumb and lean back a fair bit. The simplest way to fix this would be to sister a whole new bunch of studs all plumb and job's done. That's the...