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So it would seem. If a ring is reasonably balanced and the cable and breaker are of suitable ratings, what have I missed?

Ha :) How about using regular logic? Things like laptop chargers, LED lamps, DVD players, Sky boxes etc don't draw much power but all need something to plug into.

Actually the wiring is **** here - spurs feeding spurs, etc and actually too few sockets to be useful nowadays, making it necessary to use multiple extension blocks. How many sockets would /you/ limit a 32A ring to?

Presumably the cartridge fuse might discriminate over a 6A MCB on a (say) constant and long duration 6A current draw? Having a separate switch up there to enable/disable the feature has been usefully convenient a few times. I agree that there's no need for two switches up there, but it all came...

What would have been your solution - put a fused outlet in and wire the flex directly into that, leaving a trailing IEC lead ready to plug into the PSU? 13A sockets on lighting circuits - I agree bad as it can overload the circuit, which is what the fuse is for, and the label stating 3A max...

After quite a bit of tracking down I've found the culprit to be my UPS. If this is plugged in, then occasionally switching the light on and off trips the RCD. If the UPS is not plugged in, I can switch the light on and off 50 times without the RCD tripping. Is this a common issue with UPSs...

I've just tripped the RCD by plugging my laptop in. I've reset the RCD and typing this on the plugged-in laptop. Something seriously weird is going on. I have been doing some wiring work, but so far most of that has involved ripping out old stuff rather than installing new. Maybe tomorrow I'll...

Hi, On top of one of the kitchen wall units we have this arrangement: the 12vDC output of the power supply then feeds some LED strips under the unit. This is connected to one of the kitchen light circuits so that the LEDs light up when that particular light is switched on at the wall...

119A was the rating shown on the site when I bought the cable. They didn't state the conditions that were necessary for that rating, though. It was such a long time ago since I bought it that I can't remember where I got it from.

<amateur speculation>Is the outside diameter of the bunch of strands in 1mm flex the same diameter as the solid core in 1mm T+E? If so, then 1mm flex core would have less cross sectional area of copper than solid core because of the gaps between the strands. Really you'd hope that was a true 1mm...

Even 1.0mm? It indeed is T+E, but I would have thought that would be 10A max.

To be fair to whoever did it, it only supplies a single socket that has a small PSU drawing about 30 watts (thermostat control for the Aga). But, a fault couldn't be relied upon to be able to trip the 32A breaker before the cable melted, I would have thought.

You've surprised me there. I thought the pattress had to be earthed so that the screws were. I'm also surprised that it's acceptable, even common practice, to have different circuits in the same switch fitting. I do presume that the 1.0mm cable spurred of the kitchen sockets is potentially a...

Beam depth is 6 inches ... Meanwhile, in surveying the electrics, I found this behind one of the kitchen sockets ... and I *know* that white cable is feeding a spur. Yes, that is a 1mm cable in there, no gromits and no earthing on the pattress. In fact, I've found the kitchen circuit feeds...

Hi, When a room has exposed beams, does the safe zone across the ceiling measure from the highest viewable surface, or from the bottom of the beams? I'm thinking about mainly the walls perpendicular to the run of the beams, ie the walls that the beam ends fix into. I've googled for ages to try...

I've had a quick look behind the socket. There's plenty of room in there. There's a 35mm back box that, due to several layers of plaster is actually set about 7mm in from the face of the wall so it's effectively a 42mm back box. Looks like a choc block will be an easy fit.

Hmm yes true, I hadn't really given that much thought. It does tie up a socket in the kitchen but it's one that usually doesn't have anything plugged into one half of anyway. The toaster is permanently plugged in to one side but the bread bin doesn't require power :) I'd have to cut and...

Yes I know how to extend the ring, thanks, no problem there. I've probably got some spare 30A choc block left over too. I'll see how it looks when I lift the socket off to see behind. I'll let you know what I find :)

Hi, Yeah that's completely out of the question - it's a solid concrete floor. The cable comes down from above but the rooms have not long been re-plastered and decorated too so I want to avoid chasing in if I can.

Hi. Yeah extending the ring was what I'd assumed I'd have to do. Sockets are standard MK sockets. Nothing fancy flush mounting or anything like that. I'll pop the socket off to see how much space is in there. If memory serves (I replaced the socket a couple of years ago) I might be...