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pipe work is not an issue. These are all being re routed I have checked Build regs Tables and the spans are ok even for replacement 47mm x 97mm c16 timbers. I intend to spray all sub floor timbers while I have the opportunity. Not sure I follow your logic about leaving the old DPC in...

the wall plate has rotten and been bodged previously. The joists are 4 x 2 and in the adjoining rooms they are supported by sleeper walls at aprox 5ft spacing. If I were to change the joists up to 6 x 2 of greater then I would be replacing the floor level throughout or rebuilding all...

I would probably choose the pine as it could be stained/varnished to give nice finish without paying more for engineered or laminate flooring. As it is a new build, you should have good thermal and acoustic insulation beneath the floor. Regards

I am replacing some timber floor boards in a ground floor flat which which have started to rot where they have been in contact with a wall which suffers from rising damp. historically I have always been taught that there should be a gap between floorboards and wall to allow for expansions. At...

how close can the sleeper wall be to the structural wall? The bathroom is only about 1.6m wide.

yes the bathroom is between a living room and a kitchen. The joists for for bathroom and living room are supported on sole plate of one wall and the opposing parallel wall supports joists for bathroom and kitchen Regards

I have just bought a ground floor flat and have found a problem with two supporting walls in the bathroom. GF Flat with one flat above. FF flat has same foot print and supporting walls rise to eaves level. The joist have rotten along with the sole plate which supported the the joists and...

oh dear!!

just got the job sheet and the it states replace secondary heat exchanger. Price quoted £325. If this is the cause, the problem is a 6 week lead time for parts. Father in law was told by the engineer that it needed descaling.

Thanks Kevplumb, I haven't seen his job sheet yet. I am speculating that he is referring to a powerflush of the HE for CH and DHW. I am refering to DHW side of HE. Just for you ChrisR, I will get boiler details shortly.

Sorry Mod Im not a terrorist honest :oops:

I have a similar problem, I have a combi boiler in a flat. When I open the hot tap all the way, the water gets warm and then cools continually with the temp gauge on the boiler fluctuating between 27 and 33 C. The boiler cuts out during the cooling process. This cycle will repeat...

Thanks for the info. Would a shallow facia board be required or should the gutter be fixed to the cut end of the rafter? Mark

If your surface has a highly polished finish. It may not provide adequate adhesion for the paint. In the same way you would sand down glosss paint before recoating. you are providing a rough key for the fresh paint to stick to. If you don't do this, you will probably see the de-laminating...