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Great, thanks for the advice! For the steel post, I can just notch that out and bolt, one notch shouldn't be too much of a problem.

Would this be ok for building regs too? 7mm wood screws straight down into the packing i'm guessing. Would it require any straps?

I can't do that unfortunately, as the floor joists are already in in the floor below

I need to connect a steel post to a steel already in place. SE has specified 4 m16 bolts for the connection. That in itself is fine, I would just drill the steel and bolt up, but the steel has already been packed with timber - just to sense check myself, should i be notching out this timber for...

Probably also worth mentioning that removing the tiles to reduce the weight on the roof isn't possible as I don't have scaffolding up...

I've run into a new issue whilst putting in this new stud wall. The measurements were getting smaller as the studs were going long, which I initially assumed was sag in the rafters. After some more investigation, I can see that on one side the brick supporting the ridge board has cracked in...

I've got confirmation for the first two points - not super detailed, but i'm guessing it's because it's more clear cut than i'm making it out to be. Still unsure on the 3rd point though, preventing roof spread, as I can't seem to get a proper answer (or rather the answer is 'nothing else is...

i've got confirmation I can run the dormer wall off the new joists, no need for another steel, so happy days there. For your second question, I think that's essentially what i was asking about in a roundabout way. Still unsure what that detail is supposed to look like, as it feels like I would...

Thanks @^woody^ , sounds like i'll have to go back with all these questions... Been so much back and forth already, i'm dreading it! The dwarf wall is being replaced as it is currently sitting on top of boards on the original joists. As the floor has been lowered and there are new joists, all...

Found this online... Would something like this be fine for the dwarf wall sitting directly on the joists, or would I need more substantial support/ birds mouth the timber in?

I'm currently working on my dormer loft conversion, doing it diy so bear with if any of the questions are a bit obvious! I have plans through from the engineer but there isn't too much on the actual frame. I've attached the drawings - as part of this we have had to lower the FF ceiling, which...

Whilst doing my loft conversion, i've uncovered a beam spanning across the hallway upstairs (I imagine it would be the same downstairs). Its 2 beams, one on top and one on the bottom, with bricks in between. I can't figure out what the purpose of these bricks would be, and why just 1 larger...

Managed to get a reply from my SE and she said the above is fine so it might be the easiest option, unless anyone can think of any glaring issues?

I was considering this, but would require getting/ hiring a hilti nailer (and using it!). If I have the joists like in the OP I will have 50mm between the steel and top of joists, but if the joists are flush with the bottom of the steel then it's only 43mm. I would talk to my SE but she's away...

Thanks, i'll do that on the other steel. Would it be a good idea to remove the one i've done already and replace? For flush timbers, would you still recommend really long jiffy hangers wrapped over? I was looking at Simpson face fix initially as this is what the SE suggested (but when i've...

I've only packed one of the steels - the web was an awkward size, but I can pack the other one with something slimmer (although SE signed off the above anyway). Do you mean getting really long jiffy hangers and wrapping all the way over, nailing to the other side of the timber in the web too...

My SE has specified face fix joist hangers for the new floor joists in my loft conversion. Looking online, I can only see 47x106mm, then it jumps to 47x167mm. The 106 would be too small for the joist I assume as it doesn't meet the 60% depth requirement, and the 167 wouldn't allow me to get all...

I wanted to get the steel in place and pack up the padstone with slate and mortar underneath it (between pad and brick) to get the top of the pad flush with the steel, rather than packing under the steel. I've also bought all the padstones the engineer has specced so want to make use of them...

I've got new steels going in for a loft conversion which involves lowering the floors. One side of the brick/ padstone is now the right height for the steel after redoing some of the mortar, but I just can't get the other side to the right height without removing and replacing loads of brick...

Any creative options from anyone? I think it's sounding like i'll just have to go with a cold roof and figure out the venting...