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would maybe call SMC and see if they can suggest a better alternative pump befor you buy anything.. If the pump was going to cost that much.. I would belooking at a new boiler (with guarente) for about £600... Try SMC they may have a better pump for £60 (if you're lucky)

Make sure you're definately using the flexible tile adhesive. I used wickes own brand the last time, and I had no problems with it.

well when it's fully in (I think) it diverts hot water to the hot water tap. and when it's out it diverts it to the radiators. (I can;t remember which way round it is though) but you can check it easiely. turn on the hot tap and make someone watch the valve change position?

Usually it will shut down the whole system. The reason for the temp difference is usually dirt in the exchanger. however, I would usually expect the boiler to be over worked. have you tried running the tap at half open? if thats the case then turn the hot water outlet down half way...

Anything from wickes will do. the more expnsive branded ones will last longer. but for a shed, I personally would just use the cheapest. Isn't Duratech torch on felt? Thats a little excessive to be used on a shed in my opinion.

does the washing machne spin at all? It's strange that the washing machine will get hot before spinning. http://www.hotpoint.ie/hotpoint/_pdf/manuals/19509825201_GB.pdf have a look at the maual, and if you still have a problem write back here...

lol, you seem to know more about it than anyone else! I would suspect the washer has become jammed in position? try stripping the fitting and cleaning the washers?

erm.. don;t even bohter trying to do that much work on a budget. It will always spiral out of control when a builder is involved. (unless you know a really good one). I would speak with a builder and ask him to give you a quote before you go drawing plans up. You will be very surprised...

Scrub the livng hell out of it with boiling ht bleach, then take out any remaining oil patches with WD40 (and scrubbing brush) and then scrub the living hell out of it again wth red hot bleach. and then use this...

what about mounting the shower unit on the stud wall, and mounting the shower head on the victorian bricks? You can mount the head anywhere, it just depends on how the shower flex hags in the middles of the shower. You may be able to tie it back with some sort of plastic clip. Theres...

I would pullt the pump off and make sure theres nothing stuck in it before making expensive call outs.

You can use silicone, but it dpends on how you will like the look of it? A lot of people have been saying good things about this brand though...

ebay.

the hight of the paving is fine. in fact it's really good. However you are probably going to have to fit a 150mm wide pipe under it. I don't think building control will allow long channels these days. it depends on the length of the channel. You would have to ask building control about...

It won't hinder cnstruct, providing you build the back walls first. as a rule of thumb, you really should buy a pre-made shed. all the fitting work is done for you, and you just litterally nail or screw the sides together. Don't bother trying to build one from wood. it will cost exctly...

Usually these days we use a plastic verge. It will mean hacking off all the old cement under the tiles (i think thats what's there going from the photo). Once hacked out, you need to get the verge under the tiles, which will be tricky. and then cement the verge in properly. I assume you are...

Well. I assume you won't be telling building control about it. What are you going to build it out of? wood? In that case it could be considered a shed. you're wasting your time insulating it if you're not going to heat it (which tenically you can't heat it) as it's not actually part of the...

Never seen an MDF ceiling before... but ok.. Use water based paint on anything as the oil based VOC content has been changed under new EU rules. (2013) Never ever use oil based stuff. It wll go yellow within 4 weeks. Oil based stuff is only used on external wood from now on. the best...

no.. you don't need to remove those bolts. They are for the entire pump assembly and pump housing. The four blue headed bolts will remove the pump motor. Doing that will make things much easier (from what I can see) Also, you may want to ring the manufcturer, or speak to a plumbing...

Use one of these. Any cheap 50p version will do...