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The fence would need to be a permanent structure - not a flimsy wooden thing :) Do you mean attach the cable to the concrete posts with no support in between? What distance apart are the posts? If burying the cable is not possible what about using a catenary wire? PartP will mean this...

Agreed drilling holes randomly can be bad for joist strength.... OSG recommends (non armoured) min 50mm from top or bottom of joist and max diameter of 0.25 x joist depth. They should be on centre line between 0.25 and 0.4 x span of joist. Holes in same joist should be 3 diameters apart.

People may have been thinking more along the lines of something like Triton - a free web based chat app - plenty of others that could be used as well....

MSN in my profile :)

For one specific topic chat (eg Electrics) it wouldn't be the perfect platform but to bring the whole of DIYNOT together as more of a community it may have some benefits?

Practice flipping through the reg index faster - that would improve your scores ;) On a similar note I have a human created index for the regs which is much more intuitave if anyone would like a copy?

Agreed with RF - however I have seen a who's online/chat addon to some forums where you can talk in the chatroom attached to the forum as an added extra

I've heard of this but never seen it implemented - has anyone actually ever done it this way?

Danger is that the fuse is now on the neutral - could lead to a nasty situation if theres an earth fault to the casing of the plugged in appliance

Like you mentioned I would be checking for bad/burned connections etc

that's your girlfriend?...the two timing b!t$h

If you can't fit it in the batroom you'll need a switch in the hall by the door - is there no space in zone 3 for the shower?

How high is the ceiling? Could you get it above 3m and in zone 3 for the shower?

I made a lovely cake....but got ermmm carried away on the tasting...feel free to share what's left amongst yourselves :oops:

What size is the bathroom? Have a look at this diagram - the pull cord can only be in zone 3 or outside.... EDIT wrong diagram but will keep this here for info

Cold chisel and club hammer would do - use eyes to check for existing cable/pipe runs (horizontal and vertical from sockets etc) - could also get a stud/cable detector but not always 100% accurate!

I've used a fair amount of FP and it's definetaly 100x easier and quicker to work with than MI cables - I thought most would use these for fire alarm systems these days except perhaps where Pyro or the likes would offer better protection or for neater surface work(?)

Was Pyro not just a shortened version of Pyrotenax - the company that manufactured it?

No bonding required - this is in your house right?

Might be best to split them into alternate lights controlled by a 2 or 3 gang switch instead of using a dimmer?