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Just did my bathroom and added a new shower, the pipes only run for 600mm in the wall and my walls are brick (outside) cavity, the breezeblock, then plasterboard. I cut the plasterboard to lay the pipes in, then chiseled the breezeblock to 35mm total channel depth, screwed the elbows (for the...

Could have been a 304 (long time ago and I only ever worked on one (actually only ever saw 1) Defo not the 504, that was the one where you could get the engine out on 10 minutes (unhook 5 lots of wireing, 3 hoses, pull rad out and undo 3 allen bolts to g/box)

I had an Imp back in 88, put a Sunbean Stiletto motor in her(twin carbs, oil cooler etc), rebuilt it 1st (I worked in an engine shop at the time) - skimmed head & block (oversize gasket fitted), new valves, seats and guides, rebored & new pistons, reground crank with new ends, mains and thrust...

The most idiotic idea ever, the Peugeot (309?) that had the mega long fanbelt that went from the side of the transverse mounted engine via several pullys to the front to drive the rad fan round a 90 degree corner!

I can highly recommend the Wicks 2bar solid brass pump, it will happily handle your current and future use, a word of warning though, it AIN'T quiet ! I have mine in the airing cupboard and it feeds the shower, bath mixer & sink for both hot & cold and the downstairs kitchen hot (kitchen cold...

Or these in Chrome plate brass http://www.screwsline.com/chrome_wood_screws_raisedhead.php

Do you mean RAISED head like these http://www.thesitebox.com/Category/5616/brass-countersunk-slotted-raised-head.aspx

I have the same problem in the upstairs of my house as it's all paper honeycomb with plasterboard on both sides, the easiest way I have found for securing Radiators and cupboards is to drill the hole into the wall (through the tile and the plasterboard) then fill a few empty caulk cartridges...

Hi all Ok - I'm about to start on my bathroom and am going to fit a wicks shower pump (2bar brass version) for the new shower, as I have a open grav system I am adding a Surrey valve to the hot tank and taking the hot feed from there, I just have a few questions :- 1. Can I add the Surrey...

I think I have just had this problem (sounds EXACTLY like my initial issue) crack the top pump nut on the gate valve and see if any water comes out (I actually removed the pump completely and opened the top pump gate valve to fully open and still did not get any water come out) - if no water...

Hi Gas4you That was the 1st thing I did, baled it out to buckets and wiped clean with rags till it was spotless (I had replaced the ballcock & valve a year ago as that had a slight weep) - when I was baleing it out is when I noticed the top of the feed pipe was completely covered with...

Mrgas Hey, credit where credit is due (mind you I am 47 years old so come from an era where good manners were drummed into you !) Quick update, went to local Plumb Centre for pump gate valves (the garage I run does their car servicing so thought I'd try my luck for some discount) - got 2...

Hi all, Just like to say a BIG thankyou to all the pro's that have posted here (especially the one's posting help for water getting hot and not heating). Short story, all well at end of last winter, using water all through summer, all ok, fired up heating last weekend, naff-all, a few...

The sealing strip I mentioned is basically a 'U' channel that fits over the edge of the plinth and seals the plinth edge etc, it also has a small soft rubber lip that sticks out the front and should accomadate 1 - 2mm of gap while still sealing. On my kitchen I had taller plinth boards then...

OP If you are using standard width plinth then pop down to B&Q and they sell a clear sealing strip (kinda like a car wiperblade) that will seal the plinth to the floor and take up a small gap.

As dubya BUT - put the wife's roasting tin under one valve, then just crack the union open (you 'might' get a tiny dribble of water come out) - then crack open the bleed valve and the 1st joint will start to let the water out in a controlled manner, might also be best to have 2 roasting tins...

I seriously doubt you had 278mm instead of 300mm disc's fitted as that's a 22mm difference (11mm in the radius) which would have meant 11mm of the pads were simply floating in mid air and not in contact with the disc under braking, that would also have caused a SERIOUSLY soggy brake pedal under...

ignore last post, just re-read you post and seen height at the back, doing the maths you seem to have 2 choices, a deeper worktop or lower the oven and pack out at the top !

Where have you measured the oven height from ? I just did my kitchen and the built in double oven was full height at the FRONT obviously to fill the oven unit up from top to bottom, but was 30mm lower just 15mm back allowing an air gap (my hob was 50mm deep and I used 40mm solid oak worktops...