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Nope cm is correct.

Couldn't agree more. Maybe the OP could watch one of their own family fall 30ft to their death. Or wait outside for them to die, trapped by fire on the top floor. It's such a shame the law always gets in the way of common sense home alterations.

That sounds fairly soft. If you can push a finger in 25mm then it's going to be an engineer designed foundation, if only 10mm then there's hope yet! However, unless the trench sides have been shored up properly DO NOT physically get in the trench for your own safety. The engineer should do a...

Digging deeper may be an option but, without digging a trial hole or knowing the local geology, the ground might get better or worse so it's a gamble. How deep/what type are the existing foundations? It sounds like you may have already reached the water table which adds a couple complications...

Depends how good a job you want to do if its not under b/regs control. Photo of garden showing shed position and ground levels might well help. Generally, in the absence of nearby trees or drains, 750mm would be a minimum depth in clay and a 450mm wide foundation would be fine for a 100mm...

No minimum dimensions under b/regs (unless you're replacing an existing WC on the ground floor in which case no smaller than that one, or compliant for new build in Approved Document M, whichever is least onerous).

Sounds good to me. Decent cavity closers are easy and quick to fit but they only perform the same purpose as what you're proposing.

The cheap white stuff is, but there's plenty of closed cell EPS around. Google it if you don't believe me. Apology due to Wavetrain I think... :oops:

The answer is that the foundation type, depth and dimensions depend entirely on both the loads carried by each post and the load bearing capacity of the ground - i.e. engineer design following inspection of a trial pit. If you're digging into compact sand or sandrock then its possible that a...

Yes you could just pocket it into the existing outer leaf by 100mm.

I'd be inclined to fill the trench with concrete where you've undermined the chimney foundation. How about stopping your extension foundation against the chimney foundation and bridging between that and the existing house wall with a concrete lintel (140x100 should easily span a metre) to carry...

Sorry it was intended as a tongue in cheek comment, my poor attempt at humour :roll: My point was that how can you not expect an industry riddled with cowboys when there is little regulation at all in respect of who can work on your house. So regards your comment that there is too much...

Unless the extension is built straight onto rock then its unlikely to have complied back then (although tbh I'm too young to remember). However, if the foundations haven't failed in 30 years then they could be considered fit for purpose regardless. It could also be built on a raft foundation...

I've known Trading Standards prosecute contractors for sub-standard work. There are a lot of cowboys - many of them homeowners - but that's mostly because there's no pointless or restrictive regulation governing who can become a general builder.

Are you after advice or sympathy

The OP might want to fix a plate against a wall to support the high end of a lean-to roof.

I'm happy to agree to disagree on this thread. Door closers are a pain in the rear, loads of people take them off afterwards anyway :)

You said that the current regs were less onerous than in 2002 and I disagreed with you, citing the need for fire doors as part of what I consider to be more onerous legislation. Unless the ceilings have been refurbished or overboarded its a fairly safe bet they'll be lath and plaster in a...

Nope I asked you how the floor AND stair enclosure can be upgraded, check my previous posts in this thread. The floor covering isn't good enough to protect the floor from fire attacking from the underside - the ceiling needs to be checked and upgraded as necessary, or a between-joist solution...

How tedious. The floor covering has little or no contribution to the fire resistance, and the floor has nothing to do with protecting the escape stair.