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BG 330 gas boiler was working fine then no heat/hw yesterday, I've been changing rads, few at a time and a few days back did get an F5 overheat error. Got air out and reset and all was fine. Fitted 2 more rads yesterday, bled out air, system was working fine in the morning then no heat/hw on the...

Thanks for the comparison, this is a 5 bed detached, 160m2 of heated space, I've programmed the heating system to come on 9am off at 9pm, heat bedrooms to 18 then target 17.5 during the day with a burst back to 18 between 8pm and 9pm. The largest bedroom is only reaching 16.5 (rad too small) and...

I will be doing a complete replacement probably next year so in the "trying to make the best of it phase"at the moment. Think its circa 2006, not a condensing boiler, had it serviced when we moved in 3 months ago which seemed to consist only of hoovering a few dead flies from the casing and...

Whole loft area is around 90m2, been using that roll and the 100mm in smaller spaces, most of the loft was already covered with about 200mm cross laid 100mm over 100mm only using PIR where gap is very small or trying to keep the height down like this central section. Replaced all the upstairs...

I'm going for loft legs for the storage areas with circa 270mm fill of mineral, its just whether to do anything with the central 16m2 boarded section or whether I would be better off concentrating on other areas first? House is pretty cold, bedroom above garage is down to 13 deg C, had all the...

I know, but standards and real world savings are very different things, if £300 of PIR would save me £50 per year I won't bother, if it saves me £300 a year I'll do it. Any idea of the potential saving going from 100mm mineral (compressed into 70mm), to that plus 100mm PIR which would be...

I know about the diminishing returns on loft insulation but trying to make as many thermal improvements as possible. Burning over 80kWh of gas per day to maintain 17.5 deg C in this cold weather! Windows are UPVC double glazed but 1987 vintage so probably not helping. One section of loft (16m2)...

To get around the insulation problem you can use loft legs, Wickes and other places sell them but you lose 175mm headroom. If you compress the insulation you reduce its effectiveness. I wouldn't be concerned about the loading.

I'd agree mice or rats

Those kits are a ripoff, I went direct to Cavendish Labs, £7 + VAT per sample, posted on Friday afternoon had result back by email Tuesday morning https://cavendishlaboratories.co.uk/

@robinbanks I'm just buying from Wickes and B&Q etc, I know its not the cheapest and I buy the smaller bits as I don't have a van. What I've decided to do as Mrs wants insulation both sides :rolleyes: is carry on with my 50mm PIR from loft side then I'll go 25mm PIR on the room side and board...

Thanks Woody, the comments have all been really helpful but has led me to a couple of questions. I'm think to the best way to tackle this properly might be as @robinbanks and you suggested to insulate the room inside with an insulated plasterboard. Can I overboard the existing angled board in...

I see what you mean but I might have to just put up with the end of the rafters being a cold bridge for now. What do you think of my idea of using rockwool with hollow polycarbonate sheet wedged above it, I've found they do 10mm one as well, thinking I could use 100mm rockwool with 10mm hollow...

I just had another idea, how about rockwool with hollow polycarbonite sheet wedged between the rockwool and the sarking, I found some 16mm sheet on Wickes that looks like it would let the air through above the rockwool?

Vented soffit at eaves, no sign of venting at the ridge, house built circa 1960, did they ridge vent back then? Sorry you've lost me there, the section of rafter (about 450mm long) I'm insulating is what would have been the joist if the roof were flat to the edges, I can't get insulation below...

Thanks, did see those but having never had my hands on one wasn't sure if they would fluff up.

Thanks for the replies. I was worried wool would fluff up blocking the eaves ventilation, is there a product that doesn't fluff up? I only have 70mm between the plasterboard and sarking. I can understand that, no way I can get my foam gun in to try and seal any gaps either. I would rather try...

All my upstairs rooms have sloping edges, or vaulted edges if that is the right term, checked with a FLIR and the edges are cold. Checking the loft there is no insulation at all on the slopes, just single plasterboard. I've got enough room to get in a 50mm PIR board and leave 20mm clear above...

Thanks for the reply, I'm sending samples off for testing.

How about expanding foam, great for filling gaps like that.