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Personally i would clad with tounge and groove cladding, placed horizontally. Cheap as chips, quick to put up and looks great when painted.

A word of advice - DO NOT ARTEX YOUR CEILING! half the posts on this site are about removing the blooming stuff. Best to plaster them smooth instead, it will only cost a little more and you will thank yourself in the long run.

Generally bad idea to hang an unprimed door in a room with plaster that is drying as the door will expand in the damp enviroment and possibly warp / distort and not fit. If plaster is now dry and doors still fit, paint them whilst they are hung.

Heard on this forum that Artex used to contain asbestos, but didnt quite believe the posts so i thought i would ask Artex themselves. Hear is the reply i received... 'Artex Compound, manufactured between 1937 and July 31st 1984 contained approximately 3.5% Chrysotile (white asbestos)...

Could use a clear paint on varnish / lacquer. Polyvine do an exellent one, or paint using waterbased eggshell on the walls if you dont mind the sheen.

Dont know any pros who use pads - rollers all the way!

I would avoid putting water based paint over oil based paint as crazing may occur due to differing curing times. Oil based on top of waterbased is fine though.

I was told that Yellowing grout is caused by bleach! There will be bleach in many bathroom cleaners so use sparingly. My tiler mate recommends washing up liquid to clean tiles - it works great with ceramic plates!

Always a very difficult job todo. The stains are transluscent ie they allow the base colour of the wood to show through. This means matching two different types and thus colours of wood extremely difficult. Personally I would use grained paint effect to match the stairs to the doors, but...

I would try to find the cause of the dampness before doing anything else. Is the guttering sound, clear of leaves and doing it job? Thats a common cause of damp walls. No point adding ventilation if the guttering is fooked!

I reckon 2.5 litres should do it

Hi, If you want to discuss anything to do with painting just post it here. Its a great forum, no need to go elsewhere! :lol:

oil based white paint 'yellows' over time, and there is nothing you can do to stop the process! Water based woodwork paints are entering the market but I think they have a few years more development to supersede oil based paint. Theses do not yellow with age. Personally I prefer...

Try you local Leyland / Johnstones decorating centre for sensibly priced paints and varnishes. Its where us professionals go. Branches nationwide. Quality own brand paint and varnish at about 50% price of B&Q etc. Ps I don't work for them!

Had a client who wanted this effect on a shop exterior once - the paint is £600 a litre (!) and needs special spraying application and primers. Managed to talk him out of it! A car spray shop may be your best bet if you have your heart set on it.

Would not recommend railway sleeper as they have been boiled in tar and will continue to leak for years... At the reclamation yard get some reclaimed timber - It will be already distressed and aged = no more work to do!

Someone who works for B & D told me that there drills were designed to last for 10 hours of drilling before giving up the ghost. The small print on the B&Q pro tools says they are not designed for professional use. I bought a Jigsaw which was shocking - didn't cut straight. Took it back...

You will need to sand the varnish first to provide a key for the paint, then seal knots with knotting.

Varnish should keep out the resin from the knots but for 5 minutes extra work a layer of knotting is a good idea.

We are renevating the bathroom and our 8.5kw shower is on its way out. We would like to replace it with the most powerful model suitable for the wiring. The power supply cable is 10mm and runs for aprox 20 metres. The switch on the consumer unit can handle 40 amps. should we stick with...