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Increasing issues. Hot water from the emersion tank venting into the cold water tank, causing the water to level to reach the overflow. Hot water only used for kitchen and bathroom

I have an electrical socket, which is still lighting up external LED Xmas Lights with the switch on the off position. (Lighting very dim) The lights fully illuminated with the socket switched on. External LED Lights worked correctly when a different socket was used. Any ideas?

The missing section is on the bottom of the thread.

I was just about to install my new kitchen sink, to discover that a small 2mm fragmentl of end thread, had come off the the waste pop up base. I was unable to reattach it, due to fragment had disappeared. Possibly swept up by the Mrs. Obviously this going to cause a water leak issue, when...

I was just about to install my new kitchen sink, to discover that a small 2mm fragmentl of end thread, had come off the the waste pop up base. I was unable to reattach it, due to fragment had disappeared. Possibly swept up by the Mrs. Obviously this going to cause a water leak issue, when...

So at the lowest point, I should set the leg height at 140mm +13mm for underlay & laminate flooring. Then scribe the boards in at the other end. That will be fun!

Just about to install my larder units x2 with bridging unit. Noted that the floorboards have a slight fall along the run. Approx 5+ mm difference. Which larder unit should I install first.

I think the kitchen planner said I may struggle to open the fridge/freezer door with an opening of 600mm. The plinths are not as wide as the bridge and larder unit. Also deco side panels are to be fitted on both sides of each larder unit (full length)

Just about to start installing our new kitchen.!! The plans for the bridging unit, states us plinth to fill either side of the bridge unit. Does anybody know what that means and how?

Thankyou for your help and education

Does this suggest upping the cable size to 10mm, with the cable clipped to the wall and plastered over. This is instead of being cavity fed?

I only recently discovered that the 6mm cable was in the cavity. My previous range cooker had a Total hob rating @ 230v 8.53kW and a Max. Elec load @ 230v 15.6kW. The new AEG BE300360KM Built-in Oven 0.79 kW/h/Output 16 Amp.

The bungalow was rewired by the ELECTRIC BOARD/Anglia Electricity in 1993. This included the cooker circuit. Approx 10+ years ago, we have had the cavity walls insulated.

His has a 32amp MCB. The 6mm cable from the consumer unit to the switch has previously been fed down inside the brick cavity wall. The new oven will be approx 2.5 meters further from the original cooker position. The manual for the oven stated a 2.5mm TE and 0.93kw general consumption

Replacing our faulty Rangemaster 110 with a separate ceramic hob and oven. The Rangemaster was previously hard wired with 6mm cable for the supply & feed. Is it still ok to use the same hard wired outlet for the new appliances? Ceramic hob 7.9kw Oven

Insulation Resistance test and earth continuity

Finally had the cooker retested by a nominated company. Suprise suprise it FAILED

This was the false report submitted by Electrical Logistics.. The technician never put the electrical supply on...I agree the stopcock didn't spray like a hose pipe, but the appliances sat in a damp area for several weeks. That's why the the Wife's!!! Washing machine and tumble dryer failed a...

I presume it has dried out , as cooker has not tripped the RCD for some time. 8 months have passed since the flood occured. My concern it the cooker had previously failed the original test, but we are still using the cooker. The Insurance company "More Than" still say that we are still covered...