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Thanks very much for the help. Have gone for an AEG oven/hob, and a Neff DW. I look forward to problem-free cooking and cleaning :-)

Hi there, Don't know if anyone has any opinions/experiences that could help me in my decision-making process... About to buy an integrated dishwasher, and had planned to go for a Bosch, as 'received wisdom' seems to be that these are among the best-built in the mid price-range. Planning on...

Thanks for the input. I have now cut off the pipe and sealed it up with concrete. Now I've got the piece of pipe off, I can see that it is in fact a T-section, and had a completely open hole! So if anything I'm safer now. :)

oops, didnt see your response toasty. I take your point, but given the low pressure of gas in the pipework, I would hope that in the worst case scenario (ie a reconnection) a big concrete plug would seal it. I might be wrong of course. It would be madness for anyone to reconnect it anyway, my...

Thanks for the speedy response. Will get chopping :-) PS The kitchen is a little further on than the photo...but not as much as I'd like!

I have a redundant 2'' steel gas pipe sticking up about 1' out of the ground in my kitchen. It's totally in the way of our new kitchen cabinets and I want to cut it off nearer the ground and pour some concrete down it to seal it off. Any problems with this? Some more information: we're in a...

Thanks for your suggestion: I guess in theory I could do that, however I actually want to have all the lighting controlled by the lighting switches. Sorry I didn't explain the setup clearly: There were originally two lights at each end of the room, controlled by two light switches. One of...

I am fitting some (Ikea) fluorescent under-shelf lighting. It's a 'modular' design, allowing several strips to be linked together, then plugged into the ring main (3amp fuse in the plug). However, I want to wire the strips into the lighting circuit, so is ok to simply remove the plug and wire...

Having read all the various posts about whistling pipes, I'm no closer to diagnosing my whistling problem; any suggestions appreciated: I recently replumbed the house (in copper), and this included having a combi boiler installed (Ravenheat CSI 85A) and a new bathroom, including a...

Thanks for the response. It's the water main, which was running loose along the floor behind the kitchen cabinets. It's pretty easy to lift/move, but in any case I plan to replace it with plastic. What would you view as 'proper' underlay? I have some Floormaster Combilay (from B&Q I think)...

This is plumbing related, but perhaps more of a legal type question. I'm not sure if there's anywhere on this forum where it would be better placed, or if anyone knows of a different forum that would be appropriate? While I'm here though, there is a safety/access angle to this question...

Thanks very much for the tips and advice, much appreciated. Further to the 'how level is level enough' part of my question, I have actually posted this as a new message, with some photos: http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=425746#425746 Thanks again.

I know this is a bit of a 'how long is a piece of string' question, but I wonder if anyone could give an opinion on whether my kitchen floor is even enough to lay engineered wood boards onto, without my having to use a levelling compound. As explained in a previous post (thanks to WoodYouLike...

I have cut channels to the depth of the plaster (10-15mm) which seems about right for the 2.5mm2 cable plus a layer of browning which I will carefully apply! It shouldn't then be an issue for the plasterer to run a skim over this, as the cables will already be covered. As far as I'm aware, the...

Hijack away! It's often the interjections that bring up the interesting points. Out of interest, what made you decide to use metal capping, neatness? As far as I understand it, plastic/metal capping/conduit is not required when chasing cables into plaster. However, if cables run outside of...

Manty, if I understand Adam right, he is only saying that a horizontal chase is not permitted if it is deep (i.e., deep enough for the thick metal barrel conduit that my house has). A chase into the plaster for T+E is permitted as far as I know, and in fact this *should* run horizontally between...

I take your point about conduit Adam, but I'm not sure quite how I'd run the conduit if a horizontal chase is not allowed! It's into brick, and is a partition wall between us and next door, so I'm not sure I want to chop much more away than I have for the T+E. Thanks for the observations about...

Reading the different posts about extending a ring main, it seems this can be done either by creating a localised 'loop' to and from a single point, or by taking out a link between two existing points and replacing this with a new cable that runs through new points. I would like to add at...

I know there are already oodles of threads about floor levelling and engineered wood flooring. However, I'm not sure if my specific questions have been answered. Apologies if they have... I have just taken up ceramic tiles from the (1970s concrete, with black - bitumen? coating) kitchen...

Well actually, when I wired it in, I used a 30amp connector block in the back of the metal box, with little 5cm spur wires (in 6mm2) up to the FCU. However, someone subsequently suggested just sticking them straight into the feed of the FCU, and with a bit of brute force, two 6mm2 ends will fit...