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Thanks for the response, much appreciated.

Thanks for the response. Actually in the previous thread, I was initially only asking about a spur for the hood. No-one confirmed my later plan to add the ignition too. I just wasn't sure if there was some 'one-spur-only' rule! Thanks again.

Apologies for the fact that I've posted something similar elsewhere on the forum, but it was in a thread that had gone cold. I wonder if anyone could comment on this arrangement: In other words, I'm including spurs for the extractor hood (although there is no spur cable as such...

Erm..yes, I didn't like to confess to the fact that if my oven does indeed come with a 13amp plug, then I shall have to replace the cooker outlet with a socket. I know it seems a bit odd to not just use the ring main for the cooker. But until I get round to having my house re-wired I'm stuck...

oops. Try again with the image...

Thank you very much for all the helpful info. After reading the post about *all* cabling being in 6mm2, I spent an hour manhandling 2x6mm2 into the connector block, before noticing Pensdown's suggestion about just using the FCU terminals... GRRR, why are the most obvious things so hard to think...

Oops yeah, sorry, is 2.5mm2 to the extractor. So securesparks, are you saying that the little link between connector block and FCU needs to be in 6mm2? Is that required by regs or is it best practice? Gonna be pretty hard to squeeze two 6mm2 cables into the connector block :(

Thanks securesparks. So it seems my arrangement does not contravene regs although it is not to everyone's liking. For what it's worth, I've not managed to upload my dodgy drawing. The only possible objection some might raise is that the short (about 5cm) link between the connector block...

I have been reading with interest the many postings about cooker circuits, and whether or not these should be used for anything else. If I understand what I've read, I would summarise as: 1) cooker circuits are best used only for cookers, however, 2) there is a provision in the relevant...

Thank you very much for all the helpful input. Filtering the various responses, my understanding is that I do not need to add any earth bonding, nor to bridge the section of plastic pipe. The copper main will run into plastic literally as soon as it enters the house; I plan to re-postition...

Apologies if this would make more sense in the electrics sections but here goes... I am about to gut and refit my kitchen, and as a fairly novice plumbing DIY-er it would make it a lot easier if I can use plastic pipe. The water main enters the house in the kitchen via copper pipe, and I plan to...

Thanks very much for your help. Using the ring main makes a lot more sense, thanks. The link you provide to the cooker outlet is probably what should be in use, but I suspect it has been bodged, as it currently terminates in a standard "connection box"! Cheers

The current oven setup in my kitchen has a thick (6mm2?) cable terminating in a cooker switch (with socket) above the oven. The extractor is simply plugged into the socket. The thick cable continues on to a junction box behind the oven. This circuit is rated 30amp in the consumer unit. I am...

Thanks very much for those tips, cheers!

Thanks very much for your help! When you refer to the angle of the tee, I assume you are talking about some kind of swept tee? Would it be important to use these rather than a 90 degree tee? Also, (not sure if this is answerable but...) should there be room behind the average dishwasher and...

Please excuse newbie ignorance as far as terminology, etc goes... Currently my washing machine discharges into a stand waste which exits the external wall separately to the kitchen sink waste. I am about to add a dishwasher, and replace sink and will be re-plumbing all the wastes. I would like...