Earth bonding affected by section of plastic pipe?

[tomsavage]

Apologies if this would make more sense in the electrics sections but here goes... I am about to gut and refit my kitchen, and as a fairly novice plumbing DIY-er it would make it a lot easier if I can use plastic pipe. The water main enters the house in the kitchen via copper pipe, and I plan to chop it off at this point and run plastic around the kitchen and then rejoin the copper as it leaves the kitchen and goes onwards to the boiler and bathroom. The copper beyond the kitchen is earth bonded back to the consumer unit, so my question is... does it matter (from an earth bonding point of view) that the kitchen pipework is in plastic? I have spent a long term searching for "earth bonding" but can't find an answer that fits my question. Thanks

 

[Biggles..]

theres no need to suplmentary bond plastic pipe and you wouldn't do it in the kitchen anyway.Main earth bonding is different and normally is done within 600mm of the stop tap on copper.

 

[corgiman]

have a look at this

http://www.iee.org/Publish/WireRegs/EarthingPlasticPipes.pdf#search="earth bonding plastic pipes"

 

[tincup]

Hi

IMO and my interpretation of regs it should be bonded.


Hope this helps.

 

[Biggles..]

Good link corgiman, sparky did well putting that on here. There can be no arguing now.

 

[bster]

As i understand it, you should bridge the plastic pipe as the rest of the copper pipe work in the system will not be bonded to earth (your bath for instance may rely on the continuity of the copper pipe for earthing), also bond the sink (if conductive) to the bonded copper pipe.
apparently 10mm for main bonding (initial cold mains and gas pipe to consumer unit, and 4mm for cross bonding - in your case bridge in 10mm - but check with a sparky).

 

[corgiman]

he did

I have refered to it loads lately

 

[Biggles..]

bster, the guy is asking about the kitchen. there is no need to supp bond a kitchen(removed during 15th edition): The main bonding should be done at stop tap you should bridge the plastic like you have stated but you dont take any supp bonding back to the meter. the idea is to create a zone of equipotential in the bath room. Read corgimans link ther should be no arguing Paul cook is highly respected within the IEE.10mm is used based on meter tails being 25mm and 4mm for supp respectively. but could in theory be 16 and 6.

 

[bster]

If your bath(or whatever) is bonded to hot and colds and the cold is taken back to the consumer unit\meter, you insert plastic pipe after the main bonding and before any tee's\takeoffs..then the bath is not bonded.
i or ni?

I'm not saying i'm right, i'm saying what i'd do.

 

[corgiman]

as i have said before bster if its metal and dont move I bond it

 

[bster]

Sorry folks

Just re-read OP.

missed the bit about the rest of pipework is bonded

Thats why i earn £3:75\hr i suppose

 

[Biggles..]

bster i have edited my post for being slightly harsh, the guy has stated that after the plastic the copper is bonded to the MET and therefore meets the regs. The bit before the plastic should also be bonded.You are correct in your point that the portion of plastic would break that bond. theres again though a huge difference between main bonding and supp bonding.

 

[Biggles..]

as i have said before bster if its metal and dont move I bond it

Last time he threatened my kids braces.

 

[corgiman]

dam rite

 

[acs-newbie]

i would bridge the plastic just to protect against the fact that the bonding ( after the plastic section ) could be disconnected at a later date either for repairs to be carried out or by a person who doesn't know better. The water in the pipe is capable of conducting electricity and therefore should be treated as such. I went to a property that had live pipes which turned out to be the pump in the dishwasher that was faulty and electrfied the water in the whole house !! Despite what the regs say you can never be too causious so i would bridge it.