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probably as looked previously but ruled them out for a few reasons (cost, would rather have something more attractive, wooden panelling of bay not suitable to hang wall rad etc)

Am looking to paint a maple floor in a lounge (please don't suggest leaving it natural :whistle:) that has previously been sanded/varnished, with what I believe was a solvent-base polyurethane. What sort of floor paint is recommened - water, oil based etc? Is a primer needed? What sort of...

We have a large north-facing lounge, with a big radiator near the door and a curved bay at the oopposite side. It never gets warm in the winter as the cold air is getting drawn across the floor from the windows when the rad. is on. In a similar previous property I added a small radiator (wall...

only issue is that when disconnected the nut doesn't move to the left very far so the olive isn't exposed to get some good turns of tape round it. it's been several months with no self sealing. maybe see if I can get any more tightening of the nut first - there might be 1/8 of a turn possible yet

what sort of paste? does it go onto the threads and eventually set?

had a quick double check and it's just the shadow suggesting a cross thread as it appears fine

As shown below I have an old radiator which I had to remove for a period and now that it is reconnected there is a very minor weep/drip at the point indicated. it looks like the weep is travelling along the threads. Unfortunately this is a pretty old connector and I need to work with what I have...

its a cross between a hole/dent/gauge. i guess a clear resin/filler may work as it would pick up the colour from underneath and as long as the finish was a match to the rest, would probably look ok when viewed (it is a hall where the light can bounce in from one end when sunny and so this tends...

Got some maple T&G which is creaky, and the only option to remove this is to surface nail at various points. I think the tongue-tite screws are probably less visible option, but I would probably still want to fill the holes once complete. At the same time there are a couple of large dents that I...

I have a bay with 4 traditional sash windows which I would like to make a bit warmer over winter. I was wondering about a slimline secondary glazing solution. Each window is large - 1m wide by 2.2m high - so does anyone have an idea of overall price? And recommendations for what type? Thanks

so should it always be a 2 stage job - ie two different products?

Hi, I have a smooth slate hearth and I am wondering if it is wise to give it a bit of protection. I want to prevent marks from anything that might be spilled, but also since its a soft material I was hoping to also protect it from scratches. Is there such a product? That will give it a...

Just had our cast iron insert fitted, looks good, but it seems that the fitter (maybe to clean some bits that got dirty during the fit) has rubbed a bit of grate polish onto it and given the thing a bit of a sheen in places. Unfotunately it was originally matt black (Rustins High Heat black...

OK, so after several coats of tung oil the thing is looking good, albeit a very matt finish. I am looking for something with a slightly more satin sheen. Are there any oils which can go over the top of what I have to give me the finish I am looking for? This question also applies to a set of...

do tung or Danish add much colour depth to bare oak, help pick out the striping, fine dark lines etc?

Previous flat had behind one of its pair of storm doors a length of sturdy metal rod bout 70cm long with a ring/hinge at one side and at the other end a right angle bend so that a couple of inches of the rod could sit in a ring on the back of the storm door. A very poor description but imagine...

Got a nice oak fire surround and started to sand off a nasty orange varnish which is leaving a lovely grain underneath. Gives me 2 questions tho.... 1) what should I use to rub the bare wood down to clean off the dust, dirt etc? Seen various folk claim rubbing alcohol, white spirit, acetone etc...

Needing a hearth for a coal fire and looking at slate as like both cost and finish. In terms of a honed slate do they all tend to be quite soft and scratch easily, or does it depend on type? And is textured (riven?) better in that regard? Generally most I have seen are dark grey to black, but...

Most of the windows now have a coat or two of 1-2-3. If I were going to go over it with B-I-N can it just be slapped on top, or should i be trying to remove the water-based primer first?

I have some traditional windows that have previously been taken back to wood, and some parts I suspect may have had some for of product applied (there was a large used beeswax can when we moved in :rolleyes:). I am looking to paint these white, and because it is in a bedroom have been using...