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Not until the rust starts coming through! :wink: Seriously, what's the worst that can happen? If it should, then a dab of decent oil based primer on the offending spot and repaint. What else are you going to do - hack out the plaster around the screw heads, paint with a dob of oil based...

Appreciate that it is a drag having this work going on around you. I would certainally photograph all the area before works take place, and require assurance that any damage/mess/wear will be put back to rights after work is completed, and agree reasonable working hours (e.g. not before 8am or...

You do like grit in your dinner, don't you? :wink: If you can seal the room(s) where the chimney is with plastic sheet and tape,including over the doors, and take the rubble say straight out a window, and keep the door taped shut while the work is going on, then it shouldn't be too bad...

white t shirt was just dangling his feet in the park pond, when a large pike went for him... brave chap -not a care in the world, thought the bandages are still blood stained. Mind, you'd have thought he'd have learnt his lesson. Last year, he was trailing his hands in, and they went the same...

Absolutely normal detail for plaster to stop short of the floor behind skirting. Not quite sure whate you are meaning by coving here. The damp question is fraught with difficulty and unknowns - what is the structure and tanking of the basement? is it insulated? where? is the land outside...

...if its not a 'feature' or listed, and especially if its not tied into the wall particularly well, (sometimes they are not - just a brick or two here and there) why not take down the lot, from the pot downwards? Might be easier... one thing, when you remove the weight of how ever much...

there is a really cool method for this - its easy, very accurate if done with a little care, and can be improvised easily without tools. >Tape or blutak a sheet of paper onto the floor near the funny shaped object, toilet, window reveal etc. > get a small batten (say 1inch wide, 1/4inch...

OSMO Polyx hardwax oil - brilliant. I've used it extensively on oak floors, oak stairs, etc. and now I won't use anything else, especially not varnish. 2 coats, apply by rag, you can lightly rub down with 0000 grade wire wool between coats if you want an especially good finish. easily repaired...

will of course depend on how heavy your stuff is! you will find the building regs structural sizes tables here (the actual documents are PDFs) or suck it and see? if it really is bulky light weight items like cardboard boxes, packaging, broken flymo grass boxes, Ronco 'Buttoneers' etc. then...

I would counsel against using varnish on a kitchen floor, even Superharddoublediamondespeciallyforkitchenfloorsreassuringlyexpensiveatfortyquidatin Varnish. Kitchen floors get such hard wear (grit coming in on shoes, chair and table legs sliding about, grit getting under chair and table legs...

Antwerpman is bang on. If you have got the loose stuff off, I would try a next coat watered down correctly, and applied slowly and gently- if you roller quickly, it tends to pull the paint off worse than if you go slow. I've been there too! sometimes you have to persevere on a patch - more...

planning guides: ODPM planning:a guide for householders planning portal (your local authority may be online here) http://www.onlineplanningoffices.co.uk/frames.htm planning with a home improvement angle building regs: building regulations approved documents (ODPM complete...

It may be that if the bead is still fixed in the render, when you paint it, it is not possible to cover all the surfaces of the bead, as it is embedded. The rust coming through might be beginning at a point you weren't able to paint, but still gets saturated with salt water. Stainless steel...

I can't quite picture the minimum hieght boxing in problem is this over the flight coming up from ground to first floor? - as Masona said, a photo would help. Would bendy MDF work as a soffit to the winders?

I think you are wise.

If they are stopping excessive deflection in the ceiling, then removing them clearly runs the risk of problems, particularly the plaster cracking, and possibly problems with any built in furniture, e.g. wardrobes, sliding door gear underneath. If you then add weight to the ceiling joists in the...

it looks to me as if the vertical timber members are hangers, probably taking deflection out of the ceiling, as Jason b suggests.Their slenderness suggests they are unlikely to be in compression, but in tension. They might well move sideways if waggled, and still be doing a job stopping the...

I've had pretty good results cutting glass and ceramic mosaics as small as to 20mm square tiles like this. take them off the sheet, and score them with a straight edge and glass cutter. snap them, score line outwards, with two pairs of large, square nosed pliers. You might want to attend to...

I had to go and measure - I couldn't remember! I can't advise you on recommendations, but I can tell you I used 1 in 30. Its not tested yet, but I don't forsee any problems with the fall. I do have the luxury of a massive floor void, so I could set the fall as steep as I liked, without having...

many thanks for the pointers, Jason. I didn't know that the pointing gun existed, but I was hoping. It sounds like just what I need. cheers pie