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I'll get it right -have you had bad vibes with epdm xenon?

Don't you just love predicti've text-not calling you a worm mate! 'with xenon'!

Have you had bad vibes with worm xexon?

I'm having a flat roof extension (orangery) put in and was thinking between Alwitra (fitted at £50 per m2) or DIY with 2.5mm self adhesive EPDM. If I go the DIY route I will save approx half the cost (£700). Has any one an opinion on what is the best product. Any advice would be appreciated

Thanks Hugh, you're a star

Space Cat - image attached of the current configuration. I have uncovered the pipe. It currently goes straight for approx 4m, turns through a 90, runs another 4m until it seems to merged with a gulley from a downpipe. Approx another 3m along the run is an IC. So is it ok with building regs to...

Thanks for your quick response. I right that might be the only way. Is there anything I could use to put a 40MMMN pipe straight into the ground without a stack.? There is no sewer waste in this pipe only kitchen sink.

I'm soon starting an extension and have an outside gully which services a dishwasher and kitchen grey waste. When the extension is done this will end up inside. Could anyone advise the best way to ensure there is no open gulley in the 'inside' room. I've looked all through the net and cant seem...

Can anyone help out - I'm looking at getting a fairly large garage and conservatory built, which will be rendered. Is it better to render concrete blocks than aircreate ones? I've heard the aircreate ones suck all the moisture out and end up with a crap finish. I'm also thinking of using...

I dont want to appear negative, but a conventional build would be far cheaper, especially for a house that size. Stick a condensing boiler in with a weather compensator. IMHO you would never recoup your intial outlay for all that 'green' stuff!

Cheers Gary, I will

Sorry to hijack the thread guys, but on a similar note - I'm hoping to soon get a large garage and conservatory built and it will be rendered. I have heard that aircreate blocks are crap to render so go for concrete. Can anyone give an opinion. Cheers

Once again thanks for your help Gents. My current boiler is a Glow Worm Ultimate, I found out it does need a bybass, so I'm going to crack open the valve and try and fix the leak!

Many thanks for your help guys. The whole system will soon be converted to a sealed system with an unvented cylinder and system boiler. Does the above set up still require the bypass? And will it be ok to leave the valve closed for the next couple of months if my CH will not be going on?

Hi Guys, I've an open vented fully pumped system and would be really grateful of some advice. In the above photo the gate valve is leaking like a bugger when its fully open. At the moment I have closed it, to stop the like although it was open. As far as I can tell the valve by passes the...

Thanks everyone, all advice most appreciated :D

Cheers Mick, thanks for your advice, I've bought it now though! Do you reckon it would work better the longer I leave it, and would it work better with the heating on?

I was thinking of leaving the heating on, say for an hour a day to get it pumped around the system - good move or not?