Search results

[/url] Yes, if I turn the cold tap off as slow as I can (like, really really slowly) then the boiler doesn't react. Thinking back to last year, I could make the pipes go thunk by turning the cold tap on and off really quickly. So hydraulic shock makes sense. But is the hydraulic shock the...

For a few days, running the hot water tap in the kitchen wouldn't trigger the boiler, so we were only getting cold water. Before a plumber could check it out it corrected itself. Now when the *cold* tap is run, as soon as it's switched off the *heating* triggers, the gas briefly tries to...

So no amount of spilling/sanding/oiling will bring out these marks elsewhere, or make the existing ones worse?

We bought an Ikea oak worktop, and it's a great piece of wood (well, it's lots of little pieces of wood working as a team). It arrived with whatever finish they use in the factory, it's then been topped up with a number of thin coats of Osmo Hard Wax oil. This looks good and works well, beading...

We have plastered ceiling and bare walls, is this the right order to do the work in? Paint ceiling Fit coving (glued-on polystyrene, we're not proud :)) Paint coving Lining paper on walls Paint walls Paint skirting

Water flowing underground. :)

A bit of bleach and hot water this morning, and no problem this evening, thanks for the help. :)

Same as it ever was.

I wasn't questioning it, just wondering what it was that discounted a venting problem - I'm sure Hugh has a rational reason for his diagnosis, rather than being from the Derek Acorah School Of Plumbing. :)

Thanks for that - what makes you think it's not a venting problem, as that's the first suggestion in most google searches? The toilet is actually draining fine now, but the bubbles are still coming, mainly when water is drained in other parts of the house (including upstairs). I have a...

Have got air bubbles coming up in our downstairs toilet, and the toilet drains very slowly. The sink next to it is also draining slowly and can cause more bubbles in the toilet as it drains. They both drain out of the external wall separately, and then join into the same large waste pipe down...

We had some power sockets installed/replaced in our kitchen, the cables having heavy duty plastic (PVC?) covers over them. Am I okay to plaster over these, and what would I do it with? Would it be the same material all the way to the surface, or would I need something different for the top coat...

Had a tile floor installed as part of a bigger job - skirting board was removed when they fitted it which wasn't discussed but hey ho if that's the best way to do the job that's fine. But no skirting has been replaced, and no sign of the old skirting so I can't even refit it myself. I take it...

A company has made a couple of mistakes on my job that has definitely ruined £600 of worktop we supplied, and possibly ruined another £500 of flooring that we supplied (although it's possible that it could be salvaged). Before they started this part of the work, they were sent drawings with...

In our dining room we've had a plywood base screwed onto bare floorboards, with a solum/floorspace underneath, and then cork tiles glued onto the plywood. All good so far, but it's boomy loud - it's almost as if the floor is acting as the skin of a drum, and the noise is either booming in the...

Okay, we're getting there, just need a few translations: Prime and slurry - what do I do this with? In the UK slurry has farmyard connotations. :) I've put a straight line against the remaining plastered walls, and after tidying up the remaining brickwork there is a depth of around 20mm...

So these are the battens attached to the main door frame They're hidden when the door is closed, but you can still see through them And when the door is open, you can see the gap that needs filling somehow

The door frame is slightly bigger than the door, as you would expect. But inside the top and lock-side of the frame are battens that sit in front of the door when the door is closed. The gaps are between these battens and the frame - the frame itself is solid against the wall. So I guess some...

That looks ideal, will give it a try. Noticed that the gaps in the front door are actually in the frame, the door itself fits pretty well - is there some kind of filler I can use that would match the dark wood of the frame?

We have three doors that let noticeable draughts through, and I'm looking for ideas to help seal them off. Put some of the foam draught excluder around the frames last year but it didn't seem to help - a couple of the doors have very noticeable gaps that let the light through, never mind the...